Hi Everyone!

The Animal Madhouse team and I need your help!

Channel 4 are currently deciding whether or not to commission a second series of the show. So we would be very grateful, if you did enjoy the series and would like to see another one, if you could write to Channel 4 and let them know!

http://bit.ly/f5MPO3 - this link will take you straight to the channel´s feedback page which is the best place to leave your opinions!

Thanks

Cat

Tonight is the last in the current series of Animal Madhouse at 8pm on Channel 4, so don’t forget to tune in!

This week I see Eric, a Border Terrier with very unfortunate toileting habits! He hasn’t had a solid poo for over a year and is very gassy as well! Eric was one of my favourite cases on the show, he was a lovely dog with lovely owners who were really keen to help him. I did all sorts of test and started him on treatment and after a few ups and downs…………….. well, you will just have to watch won’t you?!

The other vets also have interesting cases, including a duck who’s walk is too waddly and a rhino who needs to pedicure! We also continue our neutering campaign and go out and about meeting the public and discovering their opinions on breeding and neutering.

I really hope you have enjoyed the series, Channel 4 are currently considering whether to do another or not, so if you want to see us again, please write to them to let them know!

http://help.channel4.com/SRVS/CGI-BIN/WEBCGI.EXE?New,Kb=C4_Author,Company={2EA1BB9C-510E-44A5-A481-01EB1DDA1669},USETEMPLATE=contact_ve.tem

In this weeks show I meet a horse called Sting who has a problem with falling asleep. His owner, Pippa, is able to ride him without a problem but she has to get on board quickly because as soon as he is tacked up, he starts to nod off! Pippa put a bridle on him during the show and I was absolutely amazed that within a few seconds Sting’s knees began to buckle and he went to sleep! Being in a strange place and surrounded by cameras I was sure he wouldn’t perform! Watch to find out what we do with Sting and whether he manages to stay awake.

Also, this show continues our campaign to promote responsible pet ownership and neutering. I visit the RSPCA hospital in Birmingham and see a dog having an emergency operation to remove an infected uterus, a common complication of not spaying. Look away when I cut into the affected organ if you are eating your tea!

The other vets also have great cases including a Cockatiel with an abnormal beak and a monkey who needs to morning-after pill!

I hope you tune in, and tell all your friends to as well!

Cat

This week on the Animal Madhouse show I deal with two very different animals with two different problems! Max is a Staffie who spends rather a lot of time ´pleasuring´ himself in the most acrobatic manner and ´Herman the Sherman´ is a tortoise who has taken offence to the cats he lives with!

The other vets deal with a ferret who can´t walk, a elephant who might be pregnant and a very fat skunk!

I really hope you´ll watch the show to see how things turn out! Tune in tomorrow, Wednesday 17th November, at 8pm!

Over the summer I have been filming a brand new television programme for Channel 4, called Animal Madhouse. In it myself, 3 other vets and 2 vet nurses, see a variety of pets with unusual (and, sometimes unpleasant!), problems and do our best to help them. We also go out and about to farms, zoos and horse yards to meet less domesticated creatures! A huge passion of mine, and the shows, is responsible pet ownership, and to this end we are running two campaigns; a ‘Fat Camp’ highlighting the health issues associated with pet obesity and a neutering campaign which focuses on the huge problem in the UK of unwanted pets and the health benefits of having the pets neutered.

This week I go to the Redwings Horse Sanctuary and meet Ned, who was one of the horribly abused horses rescued from Amersham, but he needs surgery because something is missing! The operation is fantastically interesting, watch out for his guts trying to escape! The show also features Donald the sex pest, and somewhat confused, duck who keeps trying to mate with the chickens he lives with (!), a couple of alpacas who are having problems in the reproduction department, a balding chinchilla and a dog with a disgusting head!

I hope you tune in!

Hi,

At the moment I am filming a new TV series for Channel 4. It is going to be a version of ´Embarrassing Bodies´ for animals and we will be meeting and helping all kinds of creatures, not just pets! The show is also keen to promote responsible pet ownership and in particular highlight the problem of unwanted pets and over-flowing rescue centres. They especially want to bring to the publics attention the fact that many animals have to be put to sleep because homes cannot be found for them and use this to educate people on why they shouldn´t breed from their pets unless they have a very good reason. Are there any PetStreet members out there who have experience of working in rescues and having to euthanase healthy animals who would like to talk to us about it?

They are also running ´Fat Camps´ for over-weight pets, where you can get free treatment and advice for an obese animal (of any kind, from rabbits to horses), so if you would be interested in this, please also get in touch!

Cat

The bond between an owner and their pet is hugely important and it is understandable that people become concerned if they feel this relationship is being exploited. Recent TV and newspaper articles have played on this fear, claiming to be exposing a flawed and corrupt veterinary profession, when nothing could be further from the truth. This is frustrating for my colleagues and I; it erodes the vital bond of trust between an owner and their vet, can make it more difficult for us to persuade them of the correct treatment or investigations for their animal and is very depressing.

One of the issues we have in the UK is that because of the NHS, many people are not aware of the true cost of medical and surgical care, or of the medications themselves. For example, the price of a bitch spay, will vary between practices and sizes of dog, but the average is probably around £200. Compare this to the equivalent human operation, a hysterectomy, which comes in at several thousand pounds. Clearly it is not surprising the human surgery is more costly but when one considers that the comparative levels of expertise and care are similar; both require experienced surgeons, nurses and involve both pre and post operative care, you can see how vets are providing great value for money.

I think many people feel feel that the money they pay for their pet´s care goes straight into the vets back pocket but running a veterinary surgery is expensive, particularly in terms of staff. For each vet in the practice there is likely to be at least one veterinary nurse, not to mention receptionists, support staff and managers. Veterinary medicine is very manpower heavy; most patients will need at least two people to care for them; one to hold them and a second to administer medication, anaesthetics or operate. Also, most practices have extensive levels of equipment such as x-ray and ultrasound machines, surgical instruments and medications, all of which need to to stored and maintained. The veterinary profession is highly regulated to ensure safety and high practicing standards, something we are very proud of, but it also comes at a cost.

Vets are very hard working, regularly doing 10 hour days or longer and many also cover their own ´out-of-hours´ duties for emergencies. In fact, all vets have a legal obligation to provide 24 hour care for their patients, it is one of our guiding principles. However, our average salaries rarely reflect this commitment, especially compared to our human equivalent, the GP, who has ´opted out´ of round-the-clock care. A typical assistant vet´s wage will be about £35,000, which is well below that of other similarly qualified professionals. GP´s, for example take home around £100,000. Vets, and their nurses who earn even less, are not in this profession to make money and nor do we want to be. We chose our job because we enjoy working with animals and their owners and care passionately about animal welfare.

Often vets are placed in an extremely difficult position by people who are unable to pay for their animals. All vets are pet lovers and many will provide discounted care to those in need. However, they cannot do this for all as ultimately they have a responsibility to keep their business afloat and profitable. Also, vets are a highly trained professionals providing an expert service, so of course should charge for their time and expertise. Ultimately owning a pet is a privilege and not a right and it is the owner who is responsible for their animal´s health care needs. There are several charities who provide low cost or free treatment for those on low incomes but it doesn´t stop vets coming under an almost daily pressure over costs.

I am proud to be a vet and to be part of a hard working, animal loving and honest profession. I accept that there are always going to be elements who do not practice to the highest standards or have dubious charging methods but these are few and far between. I have no issue with such people being exposed but in my experience the shows or articles on this subject concentrate on this tiny minority and tar us all with the same brush, damaging the public´s perception of vets and making our job harder. However, I believe that the vast majority of pet owners are very happy with their vet, trusts them and understands that we practice only to serve and protect the best interests of their animals.

June is National Microchipping month and veterinary practices all over the country will be taking part. Vets will be offering microchips at reduced prices and holding microchipping events, in an effort to get as many pets as possible chipped


What are microchips?
Microchips are small devices that are only about the size of a grain of rice. They are inserted under the skin at the back of the neck and each contains a unique number which can be read by a special scanning device. Microchips are completely harmless and often you cannot even feel them once they have been inserted. They cannot be removed unless in exceptional circumstances, so your pet will always be identifiable.

Why should I microchip my pet?
All responsible pet owners should have their pets microchipped. All animals, from dogs and cats to rabbits and birds, can be microchipped. If you pet is lost or stolen, anyone with a special scanner will be able to find the chip and the number. All vets, the RSPCA, the Dog Warden and the police have the scanners. The unique number in the chip is held on a central data base with all your contact details. Also, if you are thinking of travelling abroad with your pet under the PETS travel scheme, they will have to be chipped in order to leave the country.

How is my pet microchipped?
The microchip is inserted via a needle into the scruff, which is the lose skin on the back of your pets neck. The needle is quite large, but the injection is over very quickly, and many animals can be distracted with a tasty treat or a big cuddle! If you are concerned, you can always ask for a nurse to hold your pet instead. If your pet is going to undergo an anaesthetic, if, for example, they are being neutered, ask your vet to do it then. Your pet won´t feel it and often it is cheaper.

So, if your pets aren´t done, get them down to your vet this month and have them microchipped (and pinned!)

It is Rabbit Awareness Week in the UK and vets all over the country are offering free rabbit health check to support the initiative. However, knowing how to give your bunny a regular once over at home is a useful skill and a great way to ensure they are healthy.

Coat

Your rabbit´s coat should be smooth, shiny and free from any skin flakes or matts. Rabbits can get fleas just like cats and dogs, so also look out for flea dirt which resembles small flecks of dirt. You should check their underneath everyday; their bottoms should be clean and free of faeces. Some rabbits can get large build-ups of poo at their backends, caused by problems such as a poor diet, obesity or a dirty hutch and this can leave them very vulnerable to fly strike. Dental problems are common in rabbits and they can make them over-salivate, which causes the fur on the chin to be soggy or matted.

Eyes

A rabbits eyes should both be open, bright and free from any discharges. As they are quite close to the ground and often, due to the hay and straw, live in dusty environments, rabbits are vulnerable to eye infections. These cause the eyes to be weepy and sore. The discharge is often a milky-white colour and can make the fur around the eyes very sticky. They can also get cataracts which make the pupil of the eye a white colour and can cause blindness. A very common problem in rabbits is over-grown teeth but not many people know these can cause eye infections by blocking the tear ducts.

Ears

The ears should be smooth and clean on the inside. Sometimes rabbits suffer with ear mites which make the ears sore and cause a build-up of sticky black/brown wax in the ears. Also, in Lops with long ears, make sure the tips do not become scratched and sore from trailing on the ground.

Teeth

Dental problems are one of the most common reasons for illness in animals, so regularly checking their teeth is vital. However, it is only possible in a home examination to see a rabbits incisor teeth and even then that can be tricky! The best way to look at the is to sit the rabbit on a table or or lap facing away from you. Keeping your arms close to their sides and leaning over them (which helps to keep them still), gently lift up the upper lip. The teeth should be short, smooth and aligned with each other. The only way to look at the molar teeth is with a special scope in their mouths but signs of problems from the outside are lumps on the jaw bone, weight loss, appetite loss and excessive salivation.

Nails

Rabbits have very strong nails which are designed to be digging and shifting dirt all the time. They should be regularly checked as often in domestic rabbits they become over-grown.

Weight

Obesity is a big problem in pet rabbits and, as most people think they should be cuddly, often over-looked. In a rabbit who is a healthy weight, you should be able to feel their ribs and spine with only slight pressure and, when they stretch out they should have an obvious waist behind their ribcage. Female rabbits will have a dewlap under their chin but it should not be excessive. Obesity is cause by a combination of over-eating and inactivity. A rabbits diet should consist of a majority of hay, with a maximum of a tablespoon of pelleted diet twice daily and they should be able to run about freely at least once a day.

Rabbits tend to be very secretive if they are poorly and often weight loss is one of the only symptoms of illness. So, get into the habit of regularly weighing your bunny so you can pick up on any problems early.

Demeanour

Rabbits are naturally inquisitive and lively creatures and a happy rabbit is an alert rabbit. If your bunny ever becomes withdrawn, quiet or refuses to eat for any length of time then there may be a serious problem and they should go to the vet. Sometimes rabbits can become very bored, especially if they are kept in a small hutch and never let out, or are kept on their own (rabbits are sociable creatures and should always be kept with at least one other bunny) and this can cause them to become quiet, simply because they have nothing to do.

Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD) In Rabbits


Most rabbit owners have heard of Myxomatosis and know they should have their rabbits vaccinated against it at least every year. But what about the other injection the rabbit has? The one which is given two weeks apart from the Myxo vaccine and protects them against something called VHD? Responsible rabbit owners will always follow their vet´s advice and have this injection as well but many will not be aware of VHD as a disease, which is not nearly as common as Myxomatosis but is just as deadly.

What is VHD?

VHD is a very infectious viral disease of rabbits. It was first diagnosed in the UK in 1992 but had been a worldwide problem for many years before that. Up until 1996 it was a ´notifiable disease´, which meant if vets found it they had to report it to the Government so they could try to control the spread. However, it soon became so widespread that the attempt and reporting was abandoned. The virus survives well outside a rabbits body and can remain active for several months, which is why it spreads so easily.

How can my rabbit catch VHD?

A pet rabbit can catch VHD from either direct contact with an infected bunny (either wild or pet) or from the virus being carried on things like their owner´s shoes or clothing or infected bedding (so called ´in-direct´ contact) Therefore both indoor and outdoor rabbits are at risk from the disease and those who live in rural areas close to wild rabbits are particularly vulnerable.

What are the symptoms of VHD?

A rabbit infected with VHD will become very sick very quickly; they can collapse and die with no warning. However, more usually they will become depressed, anorexic and have a high temperature. They may also have trouble breathing, develop nose bleeds and can even fit. These symptoms are related to the virus causing both internal and external haemorrhages (hence the name). The virus takes between 1-3 days to cause symptoms and most infected rabbits die within 12-36 hours of becoming poorly.

How is VHD treated?

There is no treatment for VHD and the vast majority of infected rabbits will die, even with intensive nursing care. Only babies less than eight weeks old are unaffected if they are exposed and they will go on to be immune for life. Vaccination and prevention is the only cure!


Please note, this is an advise only article, if you have any specific concerns or questions about your pet, you should contact your vet.

So your bitch has had a litter of puppies. You may have done this deliberately, or had an ´accident´ but they are here now and you have to do your best for them. The care puppies receive when they are very young is some of the most important they will ever have and will hopefully help set them up as healthy, happy dogs for the rest of their lives.

Health

Worms are a common and serious health issue for pups. They are passed from the bitch to the pups in the milk, so unless the bitch has been properly wormed during her pregnancy, the pups will almost certainly have worms and severe infestations can cause significant gut damage and even death.

Pups should be wormed every fortnight between the ages of 2 weeks and 8 weeks old and then monthly until 6 months of age. They should always be wormed with a product from a vet, not from a pet shop as these are unlikely to be strong enough to fully clear infestations. The dose of wormer needed will change as they grow, so they should be weighed each time they are wormed, vets are generally happy to dispense wormers provided they have checked the litter over at least once and this is also an ideal opportunity to pick up on any health issues they may have.

You must also ensure the pups are free from fleas. Fleas can be a real burden and heavy infestations can make them anaemic. There is a flea spray which you can buy from your local vet which can be used to treat pups from 2 days of age and it is active for 3 months. It can also be used on the bitch.

Feeding

For the first four to five weeks of life puppies rely on their Mother for food, so ensuring she gets the correct nutrition is vital. The best food to give a nursing bitch is a good quality puppy food. The energy demands on her are so high she simply wouldn´t be able to eat enough adult dog food to meet them. Puppy food is not only very calorie dense, it also has high levels of calcium, minerals and other nutrients all of which are required for pups to grow properly .

The best quality foods are not found on the supermarket shelves but rather in your vets, who will also be a fabulous source of advice, or larger pet stores. When it comes to weaning the pups, the best diet to give is a porridge made from the same puppy food as Mum has been eating, which means the pups are more likely to accept it, mixed with a puppy milk replacer. Many people chose to add ´extras´ to the mother´s or pup´s diet, such as scrambled eggs, mince meat or porridge. However, this can be difficult to get right, time consuming and expensive, particularly for inexperienced breeders, and not really necessary so long as they are fed good quality puppy food.

Socialising

Possibly the most important part of a puppy´s early life is their exposure to the world around them. The environment they are brought up in and the people they meet will determine how they cope and behave for the rest of their lives.

Firstly, the best place for a litter to live is in the heart of the home where they will be exposed to all the sights, sounds and smells of family life. It can be easier to keep them in a quite room or shed but imagine a young pup not only leaving the litter and its mother for the first time but also suddenly landing in a busy household. They should, within reason, be handled by many different people; men, women and children. It is also vital they do not leave until 8 weeks old as they will learn so much from their mother and litter mates during the final weeks.

It is also important to realise that, to dogs, people not only come in different shapes and sizes but can also change their appearances significantly. So, try to expose them to things like sunglasses, umbrellas, hoodies, all kinds of of hats and big jackets. Also, meeting older people who use sticks or are in a wheelchair is very useful.

Of course, the socialising of a puppy doesn´t stop when they leave the litter and it is important you educate their new owner on how best to continue this process. Once a puppy has settled into their new home, again they should meet as many new and different people as possible and after their vaccines are finished they should go out and about and meet the world as much as possible; busy streets, parks, playgrounds and markets. They should also be introduced to known adult dogs as soon as possible, there is nobody better than a sensible adult dog to teach a puppy some manners!

Breeding a litter of puppies can be a rewarding process but it is also very hard work, expensive and can be stressful. You must be able to give the pups the best possible start in life, ensure they go on to loving and responsible homes and be prepared to take them back again if there are any problems.

Why is it so hard for people to believe that vets act in the best interests of their pets and are not out to bleed them dry of money or, as claimed in today´s Daily Mail, selling pet food which is actively harming pets? In the media in the past few months vets have been roundly beaten on various fronts, a set of completely unjustified attacks on a committed and hard working profession.

The Daily Mail article claims that all processed pet food is bad and could be potentially harming our animals. They also attack particularly the foods available exclusively from veterinary surgeries and appear to be stating that these are the worst of the bunch. Yes, there are some dreadful pet foods out there but they are found on the supermarket shelves, definitely not in the vets. They are the ones with different coloured kibbles hiding poor quality ingredients, or with extra sugars and e-numbers to make them super tasty. The ones which, when you add water, will turn into a gravy mixture, can you imagine the additives required to make it do that?! Or in plastic tubes or cheap tins with only ´meat products´ specified as ingredients. These are the diets which cause poor teeth, obesity and other health problems and I actively advise my clients against them. In contrast to the diets from vets, which will not contain any additives or colourings and are made from the best quality raw materials. These are the highest quality diets on the market, they are in the vets for this very reason and because vets do know what is best for animals, despite what this article will tell you.

Hairdressers display expensive quality shampoos, beauty salons sell make-up and tanning lotion, even mechanics will sell car accessories but nobody is accusing them of ripping their customers off. You know these products are more than the ones in the supermarket but also that they are great quality and on the shelves because the professionals believe in them, so why should it be any different for vets? Every single person I know in the veterinary profession feeds their animal a good quality processed diet and don´t you think that if any of the problems claimed in the Daily Mail were true, we would be aware of them by now?

There are several people in the article extolling the virtues of a raw food diet. These are fine but they are not the panacea they are often claimed to be. Feeding a nutritionally balanced raw food diet is not easy, it requires commitment, expense and can cause nasty Salmonella and Campylobacter infections. However, if I have a client who feeds it, or is interested in feeding it, I will not advise them against it, I think it can be good if done properly, the problem is that that can be very hard to achieve.

The article has quoted a few pet owners who animals have sadly contracted a range of illnesses and are convinced that their diets have caused this. I doubt whether there is a shred of evidence to prove this but their opinions are being treated as fact. This is completely misleading to the pet owning public at large and will be causing owners to worry unnecessarily and damaging the bond of trust between a vet and a client, who will be more suspicious of their, wholly professional advice.

Articles like this make me want to scream. They are written by people who know very little about their chosen subject but who want to make a media ´splash´, with no thought to the damage they may cause. The veterinary profession is highly trained, hard working and acts only in the best interests of their clients and their pets. If you don´t want to buy your pets food from them that´s fine, but at least listen to their advice and whatever you do don´t buy your animal´s diet from the supermarket shelves.

Cystitis, a painful inflammation of the bladder, is a common problem in cats. Understanding the symptoms, causes and treatments of cystitis is helpful in ensuring your cat receives prompt veterinary care if they ever suffer.

Symptoms

The symptoms of cystitis are generally easy to spot. Basically the cat feels as if its bladder is full all the time and so will make frequent attempts to urinate. They may also strain to pass urine and can spend far more time on the tray than normal. The passage of any wee is very painful, so the cat may cry out or lick at themselves excessively. Another feature of cystitis is that cats will often urinate in unusual places, often softer surfaces. This is because the cat doesn´t think ´when I wee it hurts´, they think ´when I wee the floor jumps up and bites me!´. The urine produced is generally small amounts only and can be blood stained.

Causes of cystitis;

There are three main causes of cystitis; bacterial infections, crystalline cystitis and ´Idiopathic´.

Bacterial Infections
These are the most common cause of cystitis in humans, so it is the one we all tend to think of first. However, it is actually the least common cause of cystitis in young cats and accounts for only 5% of cases. It is more likely in older cats whose kidneys might not be functioning well.

Crystals

Some cats start to produce crystals in their urine which act like shards of glass; scratching the bladder lining and causing the bladder to become inflamed and sore. We don´t know why this happens but it is more common in male, neutered cats, especially those who are over-weight. These crystals are formed from excess minerals which are excreted by the body in the urine. Sometimes they clump together and produce bladder stones, in other cases they stay separate and form a ´sand´ in the bladder. Not only is this form of cystitis very painful but it can also cause a serious, and potentially fatal, problem in male cats where the narrow tube which runs from the bladder to the penis tip (the urethra) becomes blocked and they are unable to urinate. This is why any cat, but especially a male, should be taken to the vet as soon as these kind of symptom appears.

Idiopathic

This is the most common cause of cystitis. Idiopathic means that the underlying cause of the problem is unknown, but it is often stress related.

Diagnosis

Diagnosis of cystitis in cats is usually done just by the clinical signs alone. However, in cats who suffer from repeated bouts of the problem you vet is likely to want to investigate to find the underlying cause. Obtaining a urine sample from a cat is much easier than it sounds; your vet will provide you with a special litter which goes in the litter tray which doesn´t soak up the urine. This means your cat can use the tray as normal and you can collect what they produce. The urine will be tested for bacteria and crystals, amongst other things, to try to find an underlying cause for the problem. Your vet may also want to perform other tests such as blood tests, x-rays or ultrasound scans, particularly if they are concerned about kidney problems or bladder stones.

Treatment

The treatment for cystitis will vary depending on the underlying cause of the problem but all affected animals should be given pain relief.

Bacterial cystitis responds well to antibiotics, however because it is an unusual problem in cats it is sensible to look for other abnormalities, such as kidney problems or bladder stones, especially if the infections keeps coming back

Cystalline cystitis is treated by a dietary change. The formation of crystals is related to excess minerals being excreted in the urine and also the urinary pH. Veterinary prescription diets stop the excretion of minerals, alter the pH of the urine and encourage greater urine flow. This dissolves some forms of crystals and prevents the formation of more. It is important these diets are fed exclusively and nothing else but water is offered. Increasing water intake is important in all forms of cystitis and feeding a wet diet is one of the easiest ways of doing this. Other techniques include flavouring the water, providing lots of water bowls or water fountains. In cats who have also developed bladder stones, often the only treatment for these is surgery to remove them followed by a prescription diets.

Idiopathic cystitis is more difficult to treat. It is often stress related so a detailed history of the cats home environment and personality are usually required. Sometimes the symptoms can be controlled with medications and dietary changes but usually some form of behavioural therapy is needed as well. It is particularly important to try to resolve this kind of cystitis quickly as repeated bouts can cause strictures (tightening) of the urethra and cause permanent problems.

It is rare that a day goes by that I don´t vaccinate a new puppy or kitten for a client, it is a fun consultation and I always ask them where they got their new pet from. This isn´t because I am looking for myself (I have a houseful of waifs and strays!) but because so many animals are bred by people who are not responsible. The answer helps me know what kind of advice the proud new owner needs and what standard of care the new puppy or kitten is likely to have had before they got it.

People chose to breed animals for many different reasons; because the kids insist on having a litter of cute baby animals; because they truly believe their pet is wonderful and want to create more like them or; and most commonly, for the money. Breeding pets, especially pedigree dogs, can be a
lucrative business and it is not surprising people see it as an easy way to make some cash. However, this is rarely in the best interests of the animal and can go horribly wrong. . Vets and breeders will always have a love-hate relationship, from those who have been ´breeding for 30 years´ and therefore think they know more than the vet, to others who have bred a bitch without any thought and produce poor quality animals, or worse, end up needing a caesarian they cannot afford. However, we see the consequences of over-breeding from the animals perspective; dogs and cats crippled with hereditary diseases and rescue centres over-flowing with unwanted pets. Good breeders, who genuinely have the best interests of the animals at heart and are in it for the love not the money, are few and far between.

I recently went to Discover Dogs, the annual celebration of all things pedigree run by the Kennel Club and there I had the pleasure of meeting some extremely responsible, caring and committed breeders. These people were all passionate about their dogs, ensured every animal had undergone, and passed, the necessary health checks and kept in contact with every pup they bred. Certainly, if you are looking for a pedigree puppy, then the Kennel Club website is the place to start. However, even here you have to be on your guard. Even though the Kennel Club runs many different schemes for health checks on pedigree pets, I was horrified to discover that these are not compulsory for their registered breeders. This is a ludicrous situation which allows breeders who know their pets carry debilitating illnesses, but who are otherwise ´excellent examples of their breed´ to continue producing from their animals. I would like to see these checks become mandatory and, furthermore, any animal who fails them be neutered to ensure their genes cannot be passed on.

If you do want to buy any young animal from a breeder then it is definitely a ´buyer beware´ situation and this applies to both pedigree and cross-bred animals. Firstly, you should always visit the breeder at home and be able to see the mother with her babies. Secondly, ask yourself honestly whether this person has truly bred in the best interest of the animal; how many litters has she had in the past year, are all the pups or kittens flea-free and wormed, have all the relevant health checks been carried out and passed? Doing some homework on your chosen breed will pay dividends in ensuring your new pet is as healthy as possible, is suitable for your lifestyle and has the best chance of a problem free life. The best advice is that if you have any doubts at all, then walk away. Never buy an animal to ´rescue´ it, this will only encourage the breeder and condemn more animals to the same situation and if you are significantly concerned, then call the RSPCA.

If you have a pet and are considering breeding from it then my immediate answer would be ´don´t´. Breeding animals is not an easy task, can be expensive, especially if there are complications, and is hard work (clearing up after a litter of lively, hungry puppies is a full time job!) It is an oft repeated statement and I sometimes feel like a stuck record, but rescue centres are over-flowing with unwanted pets, all of which have been bred by someone and I bet they were convinced that their pets would ´never´ end up in a rescue kennels but they do. Also, and again this cannot be stated often enough, there is no advantage to the bitch or queen in having a litter at all. However, if you are determined then I would advise you do it as responsibly as possible; talk to experienced breeders and your vet, find out the health tests your pet should have and make sure they are done, and be prepared to be responsible for any animal you breed for the rest of its life.

Of course, people are always going to breed animals, either by accident or design. However, when you have been faced with an owner who cannot afford a caesarian on a welping bitch and is therefore likely to lose both her and all the pups, or have been round a rescue kennels euthanasing unwanted pets, there is only ever one answer to the question´ do you think I should breed?´ If this article makes even one person change their mind about breeding, then quite frankly that is not nearly enough, but it will be a start and I shall be happy with that.

What do you get for the pet who has everything?!

Christmas time is upon us again and it is time for the dreaded Christmas shopping! It is very few peoples idea of fun, trying to find a suitable present for Great Aunt Flo and all those cousins you barely see, and sometimes it is hardly less stressful buying the right thing for out nearest and dearest. But what about the animals in our lives? Sure there are plenty of pre-packaged ´treat stockings´ out there, but these are not very original and are calorie packed. So, how about buying something they will actually enjoy and will be useful?

Dogs

Dogs are active, inquisitive, intelligent creatures and many are left alone for periods during the day, or are not given enough to keep them occupied. This can lead to them becoming bored which can cause behavioural issues. So, the best toys for dogs are ones which keep them busy and entertained. Many dogs love to chew but some are experts at reducing chew treats to nothing in record time! Products like the Nylabone chews are excellent as they are virtually indestructible, are scented which keeps the dog interested and come in various sizes so can withstand even the strongest jaws! Another good toy for dogs is the ´treat puzzle´ kind. These are usually hollow rubber chew toys which can be stuffed with kibble or treats. The dog has to play, roll, throw and chew the toy to get the biscuits out. They will only get one every so often, so these can keep them interested for hours. They are also a good way of making them ´work´ for their food, particularly important for those a little broad-about-the-beam! The best of these are the ´Kong´ range. It is also important to know what not to buy for your pet. For example, terrier breeds love nothing more than to ´kill´ their toys and will rip a nice, soft plush teddy to pieces in no time. Better for them are the ´tugger´ rope type toys which can withstand a huge amount of abuse and still survive!

Cats

Cats are naturally solitary, territorial animals and will only be interested in anything new in their environment. This is why they may play enthusiastically with a new toy for a couple of days but bore of it quickly. So, rather than buying a couple of costly toys, buy 10 to 15 fairly cheap ones and only have a few out at any one time, rotating them regularly to keep their interest. The stuffed puzzle toys are also available for cats and, again, are excellent for making them work for their food. Obesity is a big health issue in cats and anything which keeps them active is a good idea. One of my favorites are the ´fishing rod´ toys, particularly good to keep cats moving while their owners are being lazy, they are easily operated with one arm from the comfort of a sofa! One issue cats have is they don´t drink very much. This doesn´t generally cause problems but encouraging them to drink more is helpful. One great way to do this is using a ´Pet Fountain´. The constantly flowing water will usually cause the cat to be more interested, as most cat owners know, they are often keen to drink from dripping taps!

Rabbits

Pet rabbits will also benefit from a present to keep them happy! Rabbits are big chewers and very inquisitive (as anyone who has had their wires nibbled by a house rabbit will tell you!) There are now extensive ranges of chew toys for rabbits in the shops, which also have the added benefit of keeping their teeth ground down.

If you want to buy your pet a useful treat this Christmas; one which will keep them active, entertained and be good for them, the person to speak to is your vet nurse. They will have a lot of experience in this area and be able to point you in the direction of a present that will actually be appreciated (rather than being wrapped up for next year – you know who you are Aunt Flo!)

Also, don´t forget to look in our discount code section, there are lots of discounts for good on-line retailers who have large ranges of excellent pet products.

http://www.petstreet.co.uk/discount_codes/

Today a piece has been published in the Daily Mail written by a vet attacking our profession. Here is my response to his claims;

This is not the first time I have had to defend my profession, and I am sure it will not be the last, but to have such sensationalist criticism from a vet, who should know better, beggars belief. This debate raises its ugly head periodically and does nothing more than put hard-working vets under more pressure. It certainly makes me depressed, when I know that everyday I work towards maintaining a good relationship with my clients and only want to help them to do the best for their pets. Of course in any profession there will be those who are not up to standard but these are very few and far between. The vast majority of vets will always have the animals best interests at heart and would never suggest unnecessary treatments at the expense of an animal´s welfare.

What is really at the heart of this debate is money, but vets are private businesses who have to turn a profit in order to survive and in a country with a completely free human healthcare system, this can appear distasteful or expensive to some. However, contrary to popular opinion it is difficult to make money as a vet and few are the ´fat cats´ that some assume. The average wage of a veterinary surgeon in the UK is around £37,000, not bad I grant you, but compare this to an average GP´s income of £100,000, who probably work less hours and certainly don´t do any on-call, and it starts to look paltry. The huge majority of veterinary practices represent great value; yes veterinary advice and treatment are not cheap but, and this is an important distinction, it is not expensive when you consider what you are getting for your money.

Mr Watkinson places particular scorn on the pet insurance industry, claiming it does nothing but allow
vets to perform unnecessary procedures knowing that the owner will not have to pay and is therefore less likely to object. This is a ludicrous statement, pet insurance has probably done more to raise the standards of animal welfare and quality of life than any other intervention. Consider the dog with a broken leg, something which can be easily repaired with the right surgical skill and allow the dog to live a full and happy life with all four legs. For many people without insurance the cost of fixing the leg could be prohibitive, meaning amputation or worse, euthanasia. Or a cat diagnosed with Diabetes, a disease easily controlled with medication, if treatment was not an option, the cat would certainly suffer greatly unless it was put to sleep fairly promptly. The issue of spinal disease in Dachshunds is also discussed, and this is certainly a problem in the breed, particularly if they are allowed to become over-weight. However, countless dogs lives have been saved by spinal surgery (the outcome of which is generally very good contrary to Matthew´s opinion) but the cost, upwards of £2000, would be out of the reach of most without pet insurance.

The subject of pedigree animals and the problems they suffer associated with their conformation is also raised and the blame, in Matthew Watkinson´s opinion, is placed firmly at the door of the veterinary profession. This could not be further from the truth and I am sure if you asked any vet practicing today what they felt was the greatest issue in animal welfare, pedigree associated health issues would come top. Pedigree animals, bred to the extreme by their owners not vets, often place us in very difficult moral dilemmas. Consider the bulldog bitch who needs a caesarian to give birth, without the surgery both she and her pups will die, so the vet has no choice but to operate. Clearly this is a situation not in the best interests of the bitch and the best approach would be to spay her at the same time, so it cannot happen again. However, if the breeder refuses, then the vet cannot do anything about this, other than try to change their minds, which is rarely possible. Vets have worked for years with breed clubs to develop tests to improve the health of dogs and they have made great inroads. Obviously there is a long way to go, some breeders are extremely entrenched in their views, but the profession is likely to make more progress working with them than against them.


In the past decade veterinary medicine has moved on in leaps and bounds and we are now able to perform more complex surgery and medicine than ever before, but this does not mean that we necessarily should. Any procedure has to have had the permission of the animal´s owners and they are well within their rights to refuse if they do not think it is in the best interests of their pet. All good vets, when tackling difficult moral decisions, will discuss them at length with the owners, who are also free to seek a second opinion if they wish. However, it is vital to keep in mind that your vet will have your pet´s best interests at heart and their advice will be genuine.

Matthew Watkinson is making an outrageous and unsubstantiated attack on his own peers and colleagues simply to sell a book, so who is more interested more in money than morals now?

This weekend I have been down at Earls Court in London having a fabulous time at Discover Dogs, the annual show run by the Kennel Club for people to ´discover dogs´

The main part of Discover Dogs is the breed area, where dogs of nearly every registered breed and their owners each have a stand. This is where you come to ´discover the dogs´, meet them in person and chat to their owners about the breed. I talked to many different people, both those who bred their dogs and who just kept them as pets, and I was impressed by their passion and knowledge. Meeting and talking to responsible breeders, who are in it for the love of the dogs and not just the money, is a real eye-opener. They truly care about their breeds, always ensure their dogs have undergone, and passed, all the relevant health checks and maintain contact with the puppies they breed. Contrast this to buying a pup from ´the man down the street´ and you can see why the best breeders will always have waiting lists. However, I must confess I didn´t speak to people with the breeds I do feel suffer from their conformation, for example the Pekingese or the Shar Pei, as I didn´t want to get into a heated discussion!

However, the pedigree area is only one part of Discover Dogs, and the event is great way for the Kennel Club to showcase all the other work they do. There were several different show rings with demonstrations from many different doggy organisations, ranging from Hearing Dogs for the Deaf showing us how their dogs work with their owners, to ´heel work to music´ clubs letting us in on the trade secrets of how they train their animals. There were also some very brave owners putting their dogs through their paces in the Kennel Club´s Good Citizen scheme while we all watched on. It is wonderful to see the handlers working with their dogs, from the most basic Good Citizen Bronze to the expert dancers, the dogs were really enjoying what they were doing and it must be such a rewarding relationship for their owners, I don´t know why everyone doesn´t do it! My favourite demonstrations were the dog agility, particularly those from the rescue dog teams. We have all seen the Border Collies dashing round the course, but it was a real treat to see small Jack Russels, Staffies and cross breeds of all shapes and sizes showing what they could do, especially as all of them had been unwanted and abandoned at some point in their lives.

I also had the chance to have a good chat to the people from PetLog, the largest database of animals microchip details in the UK, which is run by the Kennel Club. They are the only database which is manned 24/7, charge only a single administration fee and keep your animals details on their files for their entire lives. Also there were Scrufts, the organisation run by the kennel club which holds shows and competitions for cross breeds and the Companion Dog Club, a relatively new venture for the Kennel Club which runs small, local shows all over the country with classes such as ´Prettiest Bitch´ and ´Waggiest Tail´. They were set up to provide a way for people who just wanted to have some fun with their dogs and enter silly competitions rather than serious ones. The Young Kennel Club were also there, giving the young handlers a chance to show off their skills.

I had a great couple of days at Discover Dogs, met lots of interesting people, all with the dog´s best interests at heart and learnt a lot more about what the Kennel Club does aside from the pedigree aspect. I shall definitely be there next year and I hope you will be too!

Dogs, like people, live in social family groups and, again just like us, to be able to do this they need to be good communicators. However, being different species we communicate in different ways and this can lead to misunderstandings between us and, potentially, behavioural problems in the dog. If we can learn to listen to what our pets are saying to us, we will have a better relationship with them and help prevent any problems from occurring.

Dogs have several different ways to talk to each other, including scent, body language, visual communication, and vocalising. The weakest of these is vocalising, which is obviously our strongest method and one of the strongest is scent, which is where we are poor. So, it is easy to see how problems arise. Also, through selective breeding and actions such as tail docking, we have inhibited some dogs abilities to communicate with others of their own kind. Breeds with shortened faces often struggle to make subtle facial expressions and dogs with droopy ears, because they cannot move them freely, can be restricted in how they are perceived. One study showed that while Wolves had 16 different muscles they could contract on their faces to make different communicative expressions, Mastiffs had only 4. It is important to remember that the dogs who are limited in their expressions do not realise this, they think they are communicating just fine, which is why they can become frustrated and resort to using more stronger signaling, growling for example, which can give them an undeserved reputation for violence.

In the wild, dogs live in stable family packs where good communication and co-operation is vital for survival. So, dogs are programmed to operate in environments where the rules are consistent, predictable, fair and good for the security and well-being of the dog. This is often where problems arise in family situations as humans are renowned for being in-consistent and unpredictable! Also, predictable rules means that dogs gain an expectation of what they can and cannot do. For example, if the dog is always allowed on the sofa, this is predictable, but when Granny comes round he is told to get off. The dog, whose expectation is therefore not met, may respond and let us know he is unhappy by growling. (It is important to remember that a growl is a very polite way of a dog letting you know he is unhappy – compare it to a snap or bite and you will see what I mean!). The dog may be punished for this but from the dog´s perspective it was a reasonable action, he always gets to do something, he couldn´t do it today, so he expressed his frustration. If this situation is allow to escalate or continue, the dog becomes gradually more and more confused and frustrated and his actions may become more severe.

This is why, in any animal with a behavioural issue it is important to realise that the behaviour that they are expressing is a symptom and not the problem in itself. Successful resolution of these situations is based on understanding this, listening to what the dog is telling you, and addressing the underlying problem. The opposite approach to this is called the ´Symptomatic´ technique, and is popular with TV dog behaviourists as it gives quick, but not necessarily long term, results. (Ask yourself this, have you ever seen these programmes go back a few months later to see how the dogs are doing?) This method aims to simply stop the undesirable actions, which can include; barking, aggression towards other dogs, inappropriate toileting. The aim is to make the behaviour either unpleasant or difficult for the dog to perform. Techniques used to achieve this include bitter sprays, air blasters and rattle cans. The problem is that although these are often effective at stopping the dog, they do not change the underlying emotional state and can cause the dog more stress. Think of it like this; one way for your vet to solve diarrhoea in your pet would be to simply cork its bottom. This would solve the problem, no more diarrhoea, but it doesn´t address any possible underlying causes. However, the faeces still needs to come out and eventually it will, probably in an explosive manner! The same is true of behaviour, by suppressing our dogs ability to express themselves they will become frustrated and eventually the dam will burst and the resulting explosion could be violent.

Another commonly held behavioural theory is that of ´Dominance´. This theory treats dogs as mini dictators, constantly plotting from their baskets to take over the family. However, when you consider that dogs naturally live in stable family packs, it makes no sense. If dogs were constantly trying to push themselves to the top of the pack and be the leader, the pack would never get anything done and would ultimately fail, as the constant in-fighting would mean they never had any time for hunting, bringing up young or defending themselves. In a natural pack hierarchy each individual has a role which is for the good of the group. All of these roles are considered equally important and as long as each dog is confident that they are all behaving in the best interests of the pack, then they will live harmoniously. The pack´s survival depends on all individuals cop-operating and communicating well. This is one of the reasons why it is so important for young pups to remain with their mother and litter until they are 8 weeks old, during this time they learn the vital skills of communication and pack living.

So, behaviour that is deemed ´dominating´ such a growling, snapping or attention seeking, is often exactly the opposite. An attention seeking dog, one which paws at its owner or is constantly under their feet, is more likely to be feeling insecure and wants reassurance. Punishing this behaviour is likely to further increase it´s stress levels. It has been shown that aggression and force are not used at all in a successful pack, so a dog is very unlikely to use it as a way to ´boss you around´. Again, it more likely to stem from fear and insecurity and again, punishment is only likely to make the dog feel even worse.

Dogs and humans are ´socially obligate´ creatures. This means we both have to live in a group to lead happy and fulfilled lives and it is one of the reasons why we get on so well as species. We are both also excellent communicators, you have to be when you live in groups. However, although our dogs will often communicate their desires and feelings to us, we do not always understand what they are trying to say. Obviously it would be better if they could talk ( and they probably think it would be better if we had tails to wag!) but as they can´t it is up to us to learn their language. This will give us happier and more balanced relationships with our dogs and they will be calmer and more fulfilled, and who wouldn´t want that for mans ´best friend´?!

Countless studies have shown that owning a pet is good for your health, particularly as people get older. Pet owners have lower blood pressure and cholesterol levels and for those who own dogs, tend to be more active. Also, the elderly who are pet owners spend less time in hospitals and survive longer after heart attacks. Animals provide invaluable companionship for those on their own or who can´t get out much, combating the loneliness which can be a distressing part of being older. However, as people age, it can become progressively more difficult for them to care for their pets and they often worry what will happen to their beloved companions after they are gone.

Obviously family support is invaluable in helping older people to continue to have pets but not everybody has this network to rely on. There are several charities which can provide assistance and the most active of these is the Cinnamon Trust. The Cinnamon Trust is a wonderful organisation which covers the whole of the UK and offers extensive help for elderly people with pets. They can arrange for local volunteers to walk a dog regularly, organise regular house visits to help with the care and up-keep of a pet and they provide a fostering service if an owner has to have an extended hospital stay. They can also agree to take on pets after the death of their owner and will find them new homes, or look after them in one of several animal sanctuaries they own. The RSPCA also runs a similar scheme.

Pets can bring a huge amount of companionship and joy to older peoples lives but they often worry about looking after them properly. One option which really is a win-win situation is to consider rescuing an older animal looking for a home. There are many older dogs and cats living in kennels, over-looked by people set on owning a cute puppy or kitten. However, these more mature pets can make excellent companions and require far less input that younger animals. They will already be house trained and most will know how to obey simple commands. Older cats love nothing more than curling up on a lap and sleeping for hours and older dogs benefit far more from a few short walks a day rather than tramping for miles over hills. The Oldies Club is a dog rescue which specialises in re-homing older dogs and the Cats Protection League always has older cats looking for homes.

Often, when elderly people move into homes, they have to leave beloved companions behind, which can be very distressing. Some care homes will now accept pets and a bill was recently discussed in parliament supporting the move to ensure care homes make provisions for resident´s animals. It highlighted the fact that in the most recent year for which statistics are available 38,000 animals were euthanased and 100,000 were re-homed as a result of their owners going into care. This adds unnecessary stress, guilt and upset to people already going though a significant upheaval in their lives. The UK is one of the only countries in Europe without a coherent policy on pets in care homes. Germany, France, Switzerland and Greece, amongst others, all have legislation which ensures elderly people have the right to keep their pets with them when they move into homes. If you or a relative are going into sheltered accommodation, do check their policy on taking on animals as well. Given the well established health benefits of contact with animals, it makes a huge amount of sense to allow people to keep pets with them. That is not to say that those in homes have no contact with pets, many will have visiting cats and dogs that can provide much needed relaxation and relief. Pets As Therapy (PAT) is a well established charity which provides well behaved dogs and cats who, with their volunteer owners, visit residential homes and provide much needed animal contact.

Pets provide much needed companionship and unconditional love to older people. Not only do they have proven health benefits but they also give the elderly an important sense of still being useful in their need to care for their pets. Striving to maintain this contact is important and while family support is vital there are also numerous charities and schemes which can help.

Sometimes, when it comes to pets, quite a lot! In my line of work I obviously see a lot of animals and the name of a pet can tell me a huge amount about them and their owners, even before they walk through the door. A recent survey by Pet Plan , the insurance company, has shown that traditional names like Tabby and Spot are being replaced with more ´human´ ones such as Molly or Charlie.

The survey also uncovered that the most popular baby and pet names are exactly the same, which comes as no surprise to me. I think as people are waiting longer to settle down and have children, pets are being used as a replacement. This doesn´t always make my life easy as I then have to deal with very protective clients (being a vet is often like being a paediatrician) but they always have the animal´s best interest at heart. Charlie, Molly and Oscar are all in the top 10 but not Dave, which in my experience is an inexplicably popular name for cats! Celebrities, however, seem to enjoy reversing this trend and naming their children odd names more commonly seen in my waiting room, Apple, Bluebell and Pixie to name a few. The more traditional names are out there but they have usually been chosen by either the very young or older people. Flopsy or Thumper the rabbit and Hammy the hamster often have very young owners, whereas Tabitha, Kitty or Tom the cat is usually owned by pensioners.

The names of pets often reflect the aspiration on their owners. Oberon and Tatiana are owned by those of a literary bent, or who wish to appear as if they are. Gucci and Chanel generally don´t belong to people who can actually afford their products. Deefor and Ceefor are named by those who feel they are comedy geniuses (but sadly are not). Tyson or Satan are rarely owned by those who just want to lead a quiet life.

TV has lot to answer for for pets names as well. From the very young; Iggle Piggle arrived in my surgery the other day (I have no idea either), to the older; Morse and Lewis, we are all influenced by our favourite shows. It is also interesting to see how fashions change; Ant and Dec are probably around five years old now and Mulder and Scully are well into their teens. I just waiting for Danni and Cheryl to walk though the door! Sports are another common trend and again reflect the stars of the time. Most Gazzas are sadly no longer with us, Shearer is getting on a bit now and even Roony is a few years old.

I often don´t even need to see some animals to know what they look like, particularly breeds of dog. Trust me, Killa and Asbo are NEVER small, cute, fluffy things. Whereas Mitzy, Fluffy or Baby are nothing but (despite often being more deadly than their larger counterparts!). Snowball is rarely black (unless owned by a wag) and Smokey the cat is always grey. Some, however, catch you out. I saw Daisy the cat the other day, who turned out to be a very well endowed male! His owners didn´t realise their mistake until he was too old to change it but they protect his pride by calling him ´Mr Daisy´ to their friends!

So, take care when naming a new pet, it can often reveal more about you than you might like! However, I will give you one piece of advice, never, ever name anything Lucky, you are only asking for trouble!

Every time I see a client with a new puppy, I ask them two questions; Did you go far to get the him or her? and; Did you see it with it´s mother and the rest of the litter? The reason I ask these things is that it will very quickly identify the pups bought from puppy farms or unscrupulous breeders. Thankfully the majority of pups have been responsibly bred but a significant proportion are not and, as I practice in the West Midlands close to Wales, (where a disproportionate number of these farms seem to be based) they come though my doors with depressing regularity.

My heart sinks when an owner says ´Oh no, I didn´t have to travel at all, a nice man dropped him off a the motorway services/Asda car park/local lay-by´ as this generally means it is the product of a puppy farm. Usually they have answered an advert in the local Bargain Pages, which had only a mobile number as a contact, been asked what breed of puppy they wanted (which should always ring alarm bells!) and told the cost and the delivery arrangements. The puppy will be delivered in the back of a van, probably with others of its kind but maybe not with any food or water, and the prospective owner told to take their pick. If, at this point they come to their senses and change their minds, the delivery man can become quite aggressive and, if the sale still goes ahead, the price of the pup may have suddenly gone up from what was quoted and it is effectively held to ransom until the inflated price is paid. I know this all sounds a little far fetched but all are tales I have heard time and again.

Puppy farms are terrible places, where ´pedigree´ bitches are bred from again and again, often in squalid surroundings, with very little human contact. The puppies they produce are generally poor specimens, often sickly and suffering from disease. They may have also had very little human contact before being removed from their mother and the litter, which can mean they suffer from behavioual issues as adult dogs. However, even if a pup is not bred at a puppy farm, it does not mean it has been correctly produced. There are plenty of unscrupulous breeders out there of all kinds, out to make money only, and it is definitely a ´buyers beware´ market.

It always amazes me just how little thought goes into the purchase of a puppy, I honestly believe the majority of people put more effort into researching what kind of washing machine they should buy. Think about it, if you are buying a new appliance you will probably shop around, check out the features of the various machines, read reviews on reliability and ease of use and you may even compare the different stores warranty and return policies before carefully making your choice. Whereas a dog, which is likely to live for at least a decade and will be expected to be an integral part of the household, is often purchased simply on looks alone, or what is the latest trend at the time. Often very little thought goes into the needs of the dog, how much exercise or attention it will require and what sort of training and environment would be best, which can spells disaster for both the family and the dog. It is this flippant attitude that has allowed puppy farms and other unscrupulous breeders to flourish (and is probably behind the statistic that the biggest killer of young dogs is euthanasia for behavioural reasons – but that is another article in itself).

Among the dogs I have seen recently purchased from puppy farms are ´Marley´ (a yellow Labrador of course) who was extremely poorly with diarrhoea and ´Tiny´ a Yorkshire Terrier who was well in herself but who had three, yes three, different hernias (one umbilical and two inguinal), which would have been related to poor breeding. Both of these dogs had been purchased on a whim and their owners, and the pups themselves, would suffer the consequences. Marley was bought because his owner had seen the recent film. She hadn´t been able to afford the prices of ´proper´ pedigree labs and, unsurprisingly, was now struggling to afford he treatment he needed. Tiny has been bought as a gift from a husband to his wife, without her knowledge, and again, the price and the convenience of the availability of the dog had been key factors in its purchase. She will require an operation to repair the hernias, subjecting her to the risks of surgery and her owners to its expense.

When you see this thing time and again you cannot help but wonder, who is really to blame? Is it the puppy farms producing these pups, or is it the purchasers, creating a demand for cheap ´pedigree´ animals available as and when you want them? It is a difficult question to face, the fact that we as pet lovers may have to take some of the responsibility for flourishing of puppy farms and other unscrupulous breeder.

So, firstly, how should you go about choosing the right dog for you? You must think very carefully about you and your families lifestyle and whether you can sensibly accommodate a dog and its needs. Dogs thrive on human contact and interaction, so you must be able to give it individual attention for a good proportion of every day. All dogs should have at least an hours exercise a day and this will rise considerably for the active working breeds such as Springer Spaniels and Jack Russel Terriers. Also, as a pack animal, any dog will not do well being left on its own for long periods, a maximum of a couple of hours is the most it is fair to leave them for.

Once you have chosen the breed or type of dog you would like, you then need to think about where to get it from. If you want a pedigree pup, then you will need to find a good and responsible breeder, but how do you identify one of these? The best breeders will rarely need to advertise their litters, of which they will have only a handful a year and there may be a waiting list. The mother and pups will be well loved and cared for and be brought up in the home, surrounded by the sounds and smells they will live with for the rest of their lives, not stuck in an outside shed away from the family. If you have your heart set on a pedigree, but the prices are beyond your means, why not contact the Kennel Club for information on breed rescues? There is at least one for every registered breed and the people who run them will be experienced in the needs and requirements of those particular dogs. Alternatively, you could consider visiting your local rescue centre and give an unwanted dog a home. The best will have assessed the dogs, established their personality and their ideal type of home. They will also want to ensure you are a suitable owner, so you may be subject to checks as well.

Taking on a dog is a big responsibility and not a decision to be undertaken lightly. You must do your research, both on the kind of dog best for you and on the home it has come from. If everyone did this, the puppy farms would soon be wiped out. But above all, never, ever accept a pup which is delivered. They are NOT a takeaway or a fridge freezer, they are, as the famous tag-line says, for life!

Vets work hard; long hours and very busy days, for a probably a lot less than people think. You certainly don´t go into veterinary for the money. You do go into it however, for a love of animals and a desire to help them. So, it can really ruin your day when, despite trying your best, a client decides you have not done your job properly and says so loudly and vehemently.

Today I saw a client, who we hadn´t seen before, who brought me her cat who had been injured. The cat had come home the night before dragging one hind limb and since had stayed in his bed and refused all food. It was immediately apparent to me that this cat had suffered a very serious fracture to the femur of one of its hind limbs and was in a great deal of pain.

I discussed with the owner that he needed immediate treatment and x-rays to assess the degree of damage. I informed her of the costs of the procedure but also warned that the x-rays were only a diagnostic procedure and that fixing the fracture, or amputating the leg, would be a separate amount but that I couldn´t give an accurate prognosis or cost until I knew the extent of the damage. At this point it became clear that this cat was not insured and the owner may not have been able to afford the diagnostic x-rays or the treatment. So, I discussed another, very valid, form of treatment, euthanasia.

I left the client in the room with her mother to discuss the options as I appreciated this was a horrible and big decision for them. However, five minutes later the client, her mother and the cat all left my consulting room and also the practice! I chased her outside and asked why she was leaving. She replied that she found my attitude ´insensitive´, that I was only interested in the money and she was taking the cat away. I was shocked by her accusations, I felt I had dealt with the situation well, given an honest appraisal of the cats condition, been realistic about the costs and the prognosis and given her the opportunity to consider a course of action in private. I was also extremely concerned that this cat was suffering and in pain and the owner was refusing to treat it. In the end I made it clear I was only interested in the fact that the cat received treatment and I was very concerned that she was leaving with it. The owner informed me she would take the cat to another clinic and left.

Thankfully, episodes like this do not happen very often but when they do they are incredibly depressing and frustrating for a vet. Firstly, even if you are sure you have handled things correctly and to the best of your ability, you start to doubt yourself and wonder if you are to blame for the situation. Secondly, particularly in cases such as these, when an animal that clearly needs treatment is brought into your clinic, you then are responsible for its care. So, what do you do if the owner refuses? In this case this cat did visit another local vet, was given medication and eventually euthansased. However, had I not know this I would have had to ring other local practices and if I couldn´t ensure the cat had seen a vet, I would have had to contact the owners again, or even refer them to the RSPCA.

In the end, the most important thing is that the animal receives care and certainly, once you have calmed down from the situation, there is always something you can learn from encounters like these. However, as I told myself on the day, it is important not to dwell. The very next client who came through the door was effusive in her praise and incredibly pleased with my skills. Which just goes to show, you can´t please all the people all the time, no matter how hard you try!

Dogs make wonderful family pets and companions but they take up a lot of time and are a significant commitment. From the a Yorkie to a Great Dane all dogs will require at least an hour’s off the lead exercise every day. However, this doesn’t always happen and in practice I see a lot of under-exercised, under-stimulated dogs who are often quite badly behaved, simply because they are bored! There are so many fabulous activities you can do with your dog which will keep you both fit and be a wonderful bonding exercise so I thought I would tell you about some of them.

Agility Activities

Agility isn’t just for Border Collies! Agility for dogs comes in many different forms but the two most common are the ‘assault course’ type where the dog does jumps, weaves through poles, climbs see saws and runs through tunnels and ‘fly ball’ which is fast pace racing game where the dogs jump over hurdles and collect balls from a spring loaded box. Dogs of all shapes and sizes can do agility, there are different classes and sizes of obstacles available and it is a wonderful way of training and bonding with your dog. Also don’t forget ‘doggy dancing’ or ‘Heel work to music’ recently made famous by TV talent shows.

Breed Related Activities

So many dogs these days are pedigree animals and many have been bred for some form of work or activity, which means they can have lots of energy and intelligence . So, why not exploit their talents and take up a hobby they will excel at?! For example, sled dogs such as Huskies can be trained to pull ride-on carts, which is an excellent outlet for their energies not to mention a lot of fun! For the working breeds such as Labradors they can go on shoots, or there are several different retrieving type competitions, or for breeds such as whippets there are regular race meetings all over the country. Check on the internet to see if there are any organized events for your dog breed.

CaniX

This is a relatively new sport and it is essentially cross country running with your dog. Dogs of all breeds and sizes can enter and all levels of fitness (human and canine!) are catered for. You can run using a collar and lead, or a special harness, which is useful as the dog can then pull you up the hills! There are events up and down the country held all year round.

Walking

Of course, we can’t forget simply walking with your dog but even this can be made more fun and stimulating for you both. You can play games with your pet, from the classic fetch to more complex ‘scent and search’ games with a scented toy. Or why not start a walking group with friends? This could be a fun, social way to get out and about and be particularly beneficial for dogs who are nervous or aggressive as it can help them get used to canine company.

So, lets make the most of the summer weather and get out and about with our dogs!

I have very little sympathy for people who are fat. I believe it is something brought on themselves by a simple combination of eating too much and moving around too little. I do, however, have more sympathy for fat pets. My derision in their case I reserve for the owners. After all, it’s not the pet who opens the bag of treats or fills up the food bowl as soon as it’s empty. It is now a well established fact that people are getting bigger but not many people are aware that our pets are too and it is just as damaging for their health as it is ours.

Every day I see many animals who are over-weight but often when I mention it to their owners I either receive a flat denial or they are not even aware there is an problem. The most common thing I hear is ‘but he doesn’t eat very much’. Well no, maybe not in comparison to you, a person at least three times his size, or no, he doesn’t eat much, but what he does have is high fat pet junk food of which a few mouthfuls a day would be sufficient. Once I have gone to explain why the animal is fat, pointing out the lack of waist or the ribs buried under inches of fat, I do get more of an understanding from my clients, but then trying to persuade them to do anything about it is another battle. It is not just the cats and dogs who are getting bigger either, rabbits are often so big they cannot groom themselves properly and a recent campaign by the Blue Cross has highlighted the problem of obesity in horses. The RSPCA have recently brought successful cruelty prosecutions against the owners of pets who were grossly obese. Thankfully, few pets fall into this category but even being mildly rotund will cause them problems and, and this is really the bottom line, reduce their life expectancy

Being over-weight leaves a pet at risk of a huge number of both health and mental problems. Animals who are fat are at risk from problems as wide ranging as arthritis, diabetes, heart problems and cancer. In fact, a list which, if you yourself are over-weight, will not be too dissimilar to the one your GP may have rattled off in your last consultation. Also, it is important not to over-look the mental issues that come with being too fat. Dogs, for example, thrive on being able to smell and investigate the world around them and dash about while they are doing it. If they are physically unable to do this, they can become very depressed, even more sedentary and so be prone to even more weight gain. I experienced this first hand with my cat, who came to me very fat and boring but when he lost weight (practicing what I preach you see!) he became an entirely different character; fun, lively and cheeky.

The combination of eating less and moving around more is a simple one but if it were this easy we would all be the size of Kate Moss! However, dieting your pet is not as difficult as people think. Often merely a change in the kind of food they eat is enough to shed the pounds. Some of the most widely advertised foods in the media are nothing more than the animal equivalent of fast food and are packed with calories and fats. Also, the amounts of treats pets are often given can be astonishing. Consider this, would you give your child a biscuit every time they demanded one? Or would you ration their intake for the benefit of their health and to stop them turning into spoiled brats? Yes? So why do this with your pets? So many animals are given extras simply because they ask for them by ‘turning on their big brown eyes’. The alternative? Gain your pets love and attention by giving them a good brush or playing with them in the garden. I guarantee you it will aid weight loss and also make your relationship with your pet much stronger and more rewarding. Also, one of my pet hates is animals who are fed from the table, it is distracting and disconcerting, not to mention unpleasant, to have a slobbery muzzle just inches from your plate. Again, there is a simple solution to this, don’t have them in the room when you are eating!

So to help a pet lose weight, feed them a low fat food, monitor the amount they are given, cut out the treats and increase their exercise. I promise you it will make a huge difference to your pet’s health and wellbeing and improve your relationship with them. Still not convinced? Then let me appeal to something which is important to everyone, your wallet. A thinner pet is a cheaper one! Not only do they cost less to feed if they aren’t getting innumerable doggy chocs and eating less in general, but they will also be healthier. This means fewer trips to the vets and lower bills when you are there. Now then, a vet offering to save you money, you don’t see that every day, maybe if you follow my advice, I will have to tighten my belt as well!

This afternoon I put to sleep another rabbit suffering from Fly Strike. It occurs when the rabbit becomes dirty with faeces around their backend. Flies lay their eggs in this caked poo, which quickly hatch into maggots. These then literally eat the rabbit alive and the condition is generally fatal within 24-36 hours; when the rabbit is either euthanased, or, if it is less lucky, dies of pain and shock. Every year, despite warnings, vets will see cases like these; it is heartbreaking and frustrating as it can so easily be prevented by simply checking the rabbit every day. However, it is a microcosm of the care rabbits receive as pets in this country and serves to reinforce my, and many others, opinion they are the most abused pet in the UK.

Now, I have to at this point make an admission. I am not a big fan of rabbits. They tend to be, in my experience, fairly expressionless creatures and not all that cuddly, despite their public image. If, for example, they object when you pick them, you are left with painful wheals along your arms from claws tough enough to shift huge quantities of earth and when their hormones kick in, they can be grumpy little buggers. However, it is the general stoicism about their nature that means they often ‘suffer in silence’ when they are cared for poorly and this, despite my opinions of them in general, they do not deserve.

Rabbits are prey animals in the wild and so have evolved to hide any signs of illness or discomfort. They also do not vocalise unless they are extreme pain or distress. Think of that classic image of the sad, lonely rabbit stuck in a small cage at the bottom of the garden, long forgotten by the children it was bought for, fed sporadically and never played with and you have the typical existence of many rabbits in this country. Many spend long years in solitary confinement, which can cause significant distress to such a social animal. Remember that in their natural habitat, rabbits will live in warrens with many others of their kind. There has been a recent increase in ‘house rabbits’, who are kept indoors. This is obviously a better situation as the rabbit has far more interaction and can make, so I have heard, quite entertaining pets. You have to watch your wires however; rabbits enjoy chewing things they shouldn’t!

So, what can we do to improve the lot of rabbits? Education is obviously key, rabbits require far more care and interaction than people realise; they should be handled and played with everyday. Also, their nutritional needs are often not met. Rabbits should eat a diet of mainly hay with a small amount of fresh food and pelleted diet. Often this is entirely reversed and the rabbit is allowed to gorge itself on the ‘museli’ type food that is so available. This is the equivalent of us eating nothing but Macdonalds, and has predictable effects on their health. Their diet is particularly important to get right as the vast majority of illnesses I see in rabbits can be directly related to poor feeding and husbandry. Also, people have to realise that just because their rabbit is quiet, it does not mean that they are necessarily happy. They are one of the most commonly abandoned pets in rescue centres. I don’t think this reflects any difficultly in their care, just how easily they are obtained and, how just as easily, discarded.

Maybe if we can improve the lot of rabbits, encourage people to think carefully before they buy one and educate them on how to care for them, I will see fewer coming though my doors with preventable diseases. They might then be happier and more expressive creatures in themselves and I might, possibly, start to see the appeal of them as family pets, and everyone will be a winner!

‘We should aim to vaccinate every animal and to vaccinate each individual less frequently’
(Guidelines for the vaccination of dogs and cats – World Small Animal Veterinary Association 2006)

Vaccination is the great success of veterinary medicine; lives have been saved, serious illness prevented and some diseases have almost been eradicated. However, there is always discussion about how often we should vaccinate our pets and vaccination protocols are under constant review by the veterinary profession. The vaccine requirements will vary between diseases and also between individual pets. It is always best to discuss with your vet your pet’s individual risk of exposure to viruses, so you can follow a vaccination protocol suitable for them.

WHY VACCINATE?

Vaccines can not only help prevent serious illness and disease but for some viruses it is the only form of effective treatment available, for example Parvovirus, Distemper and Rabies . Also, it is a requirement of most kennels and catteries that animals who stay in them are vaccinated regularly. Additionally, animals who travel abroad on the PETS scheme must be vaccinated against rabies in order to be allowed to return to the UK. However, despite the best efforts of the veterinary profession only 40-50% of the pet population is vaccinated and it is the remaining 50-60% of unvaccinated animals which account for the occasional outbreaks of disease.

HOW DO VACCINES WORK?

When an animal is vaccinated, you are essentially giving the body a ‘dry run’ at fighting off disease, so they are prepared if they are ever exposed to the real thing. The vaccines contain weakened versions of the viruses that cause disease. There are two main kinds of vaccine; ‘modified live’ and ‘killed’.

Modified live vaccines contain a live version of the virus which has been weakened so the body can fight it off. The modified virus is able to multiply inside the animal and so closely mimics a real infection. This means, however, there is the possibility for mutation of the virus and it can cause disease in weak or ill animals. This is why your vet will insist your pet is healthy before it is vaccinated and, in the case of bitches or queens, is not pregnant, as any foetuses could be damaged. The main advantage of a modified live vaccine is that it stimulates a greater body response, which leads to higher and longer lasting levels of protection. Examples of modified live vaccines include Distemper and Parvovirus.

Killed vaccines contain dead viruses. A dead virus cannot multiple or mutate in the body but injecting it will still cause the body to react to fight it off. The rabies vaccine is a dead virus as we cannot run the risk of a live version mutating and being able to cause disease. A killed vaccine is safer than a live one so it can be given to sick or pregnant animals without causing them further illness. However, a killed vaccine will need to be given in two doses to cause adequate levels of protection in the body and they require more regular injections that the modified live vaccines as this protection is not as long lasting.


HOW OFTEN SHOULD WE VACCINATE?

This is this subject that causes the most controversy that surrounds vaccination and it is a subject which is under constant review by the veterinary profession. By far the most important times in an animal’s life to vaccinate are when they are very young and when they have reached their first year.

PUPPIES AND KITTENS

In puppies and kittens the biggest factor affecting the efficacy of vaccinations is the Maternally Derived Anti-bodies (MDA). This is the protection they receive from their mothers via the colostrum. This remains active for between 8 and 12 weeks. The MDA gives protection against most of the diseases we vaccinate against, which means if we vaccinate when the MDA levels are still high, they will de-activate the vaccines and there will be no lasting protection in the body. This is why we wait until pups and kittens are at least 8 weeks old before we vaccinate and why they receive more than one injection, two to four weeks apart, so if the first is destroyed by the MDA, the second should work. For the modified live viruses a single vaccine should be enough to provide suitable levels of protection, if the MDA has waned, but for killed viruses 2 injections no more than four weeks apart will always be required.

There has been a recent move to finish puppy vaccines at ten weeks old in order to allow for early socialisation, which is very important for their behavioural development. However, this has been associated with outbreaks of parvovirus in young animals, as there will be some individuals where the MDA levels haven’t fallen enough by ten weeks, and so this practice is currently under review. If puppy vaccines are finished at twelve weeks of age, vets expect 98% of individuals to gain adequate levels of disease protection. There are some breeds of dog, Rottweilers and Dobermans in particular, which seem to be resistant to the vaccines. Many vets will advise these breeds are given a final vaccination at 16 weeks. Indeed in some areas where canine infectious disease is prevalent, many vets will advise all pups are given a final vaccination at 16 weeks. The World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA) advises all pups are vaccinated at 8, 12 and 16 weeks of age.

Kitten vaccines are widely accepted to start at nine weeks of age and finish three weeks later at twelve weeks of age. Although socialising kittens is important, they do not need to be exposed to as much as pups so there is less pressure for the vaccine course to finish. Also, as most vets advise kittens are kept indoors until six months of age, when they can be neutered, they are unlikely to be exposed to disease at a young age.

Click back to my page and onto the next blog post to read part 2

ADULT ANIMALS

Most of the controversy surrounding pet animal vaccination is centred on the practice of annual vaccination of adult animals. This has been the focus of much veterinary research and now it is widely accepted by the profession that annual vaccination against all diseases is not required, although there are some where it is still vital.

The most important time to vaccinate an adult animal is when they reach a year old and have their first annual vaccine. This is because there will be a small percentage of animals who did not gain adequate protection from their initial vaccine course and this first annual vaccine should be enough to boost their levels.

For dogs there are now several vaccines against which protection has been shown for at least three years. These include Parvovirus, Distemper and Canine Adenovirus. Vaccinating against these diseases more frequently than every three years is unlikely to be helpful. However, it is sensible to re-vaccinate animals during outbreaks of disease, when they could be exposed to high levels of the viruses. Annual vaccination is still important for Leptospirosis, which is a nasty disease that can cause both liver and kidney failure and is transmissible to humans. It is given as a killed virus so the protection only lasts around a year. This is the protocol that the majority of vets now follow and if you check your dog’s vaccine record, you should see that they are not given a ‘full’ booster every year.

It is possible to take blood tests (titres) to measure the levels of protection in individual dogs, which can help decide if they need vaccinating or not. However, these tests do not exist for all of the infectious diseases we can protect against and none exist for cats.

There is much less information regarding feline vaccinations and the length of protection they give. This is due to both a lack of studies into this subject and also the fact that, especially for cat flu, there is a large variation in the viruses that cause the disease which makes guaranteeing longer protection difficult. Cat flu is caused by two different viruses, Feline Calicivirus (FCV) and Feline Hepatitis (FHV), and it has been suggested that vets could decrease the vaccination frequency to every three years. The Ass Board Cat Disease (ABCD) advise that cats whose lifestyles mean they are at higher risk of disease; those who go outdoors, or who regularly visit catteries, should be vaccinated every year against both cat flu viruses but for those who are indoor animals and don’t go to catteries, every three years is probably adequate. Feline Enteritis, which is effectively feline Parvovirus, has similar lengths of protection and it is possible that a single vaccine can give lifelong protection. Feline Leukaemia (FeLV) is the final disease against which cats can be vaccinated, it is similar to human leukaemia in that it is a cancer of the immune system, but it is different because it is virally transmitted. It is more prevalent in younger cats and as they age they become more resistant to infection. For this reason the ABCD advise annual vaccination against FeLV up until the age of four years, and then every three years after that.

One of the reasons vets have traditionally advised annual vaccination in pets is so they visit the surgery every year and can receive a full health examination. This is extremely important as a way of picking up early signs of disease and problems and if you chose to not vaccinate your pet every year, you should at least, as a responsible pet owner, take them for an annual check-up. Remember, not being seen for a year in an animal’s life, is the equivalent of a human not visiting the doctor for 7 years.


VACCINE REACTIONS

Many pet owners are concerned about the possibility of vaccine reactions and adverse effects of vaccinations but extensive studies have proved that vaccinations are extremely safe. A review produced in 2001 of all the available published information at that time showed a suspected vaccine reaction in 0.004% of all vaccines administered in cats and dogs. The symptoms of which were mainly mild swelling or itching at the vaccine site, some lethargy and transient fever. There has also been a lot of concern, particularly in the USA, about vaccine related sarcomas. These are aggressive tumours that can occur at the site of a vaccination, most commonly on the back of the neck. Studies are underway in the UK to assess the risk of VSR but the incidence is considered small (1-2 cats per 10,000 vaccinated). So, although vaccine reactions do occur, they are rare, usually mild and the benefits of the protection the animal receives are considered to far outweigh these risks.


Vaccination of pets is vital and should be done in all animals on a regular basis. This is not only to protect the individual but also to provide ‘herd immunity’ and stop viruses taking hold in the pet population. If you don’t vaccinate your pet and it has never been ill, you may be benefitting from this population immunity and the fact the majority of responsible pet owners do ensure their animals are protected. Vaccines have all but eradicated many fatal viruses, it is now very rare to see a case of Canine Distemper and Parvovirus only tends to occur where there are pockets of unvaccinated dogs. This is a huge success for the veterinary profession and one which should be roundly celebrated. Also, thanks to improvement in vaccines, the duration of immunity in many now lasts several years, something which vets have recognised and they have changed their vaccine protocols accordingly.

These are some web sites which are very useful to read if you want more information on this subject. They are all well balanced, well researched and written by highly qualified veterinary surgeons.

http://www.wsava.org/PDF/Misc/VGG_09_2007.pdf

http://www.noah.co.uk/papers/vpc-catdogvetsurv.pdf

http://www.pet-informed-veterinary-advice-online.com/how-do-vaccines-work.html#vaccine-work

http://www.hcvma.org/notes/SpeakerNotesRichardFord.pdf

I found this wonderfully touching story recently and thought I would share it with you all;

Being a vet, I had been called to examine a ten year old Irish Wolfhound named Belker. The dog´s owners and their little boy were very attached to Belker and were hoping for a miracle, as he was very poorly.

I examined Belker and found he was dying of cancer. I told the family there were no miracles left for Belker and offered to perform a euthanasia procedure for the old dog in their home. As we made arrangements the parents told me they felt it would be good for their four year old son to watch while it happened, as they felt he might learn something from the experience.

The next day I visited the home and the family was gathered around the dog. The boy seemed very calm, patting his old friend, and I wondered if he understood what was going to happen. Within a few minutes Belker slipped peacefully away. The boy seemed to accept Belkers transition without any difficulty or confusion. We sat together for a while after Belkers death, wondering aloud at the sad fact that animals lives are shorter than humans. Suddenly, the little boy, who had been listening quietly piped up, "I know why"

Startled we all turned to him. What came out of his mouth next stunned me, I have never heard a more comforting explaination.

He said " People are born so they can learn to live a good life - like loving everybody all the time and being nice right? Well, dogs already know how to do that, so they don´t have to stay as long.

What a wonderful way to explain why, eventually, we all have to say goodbye to our much loved pets, especially to children.

Summer is a wonderful time of year (provided the sun shines!) and it is a great chance to get out and about with our pets. However, the warm weather can hold hidden dangers for animals and it is very important to be aware of them, so we can all enjoy the sun safely.
Dogs
The two biggest issues for dogs in the hot weather are being left in hot cars and heat stroke.
Never leave a dog in a car in the warm weather, even if you crack the windows and park in the shade, it can still be deadly. The temperaure in a car can quickly rise to dangerous levels and, despite panting, the dogs cannot cool themselves down and they start to over-heat. They can die within 30 minutes in the worst cases.
Heat stroke is a significant problem in the warmer weather and usually occurs when a dog has been over-exercised. Short nosed breeds such as Staffies and Cavilears are particularly prone to this problem as they can find it difficult to pant enough to cool themselves down and the insides of their mouths can swell, blocking off their breathing. Avoid walking or playing with your dog in the warmer weather, particularly in the mid-day sun, and make sure they have plenty of water. If you are concerned animal has heat stoke you should contact your vet immediately for advice but do try to cool them down. This can be achieved by turning a fan on them, laying cold, damp towels over their backs and keeping them still in a cool, shaded area.
Cats
Cats, as we all know, love the sunshine and most, given the chance, will lie out in it all day! The biggest sun related issue we see in cats is sun burn and skin cancer. This is particularly common on white ear tips and pink noses. On sunny days always apply a high factor suncream to these areas. The best are the waterproof kind for children, which are non-irritant and most likely to be resistant to being licked off!

Rabbits
The biggest summer problem in rabbits is a horrible condition called ‘Fly Strike’. This occurs when rabbits become dirty with faeces around their bottoms and flies lay eggs in the matted fur. These eggs quickly turn into maggots which start to, literally, eat the rabbit alive. It is a very distressing condition, for both the rabbit and its owners, and is often fatal. It is more common in the warmer weather but can occur at any time. ALWAYS check your rabbit twice daily and turn them upside down to ensure they are clean.

Cats are now the most popular pets in the UK, having over taken dogs, and they make fabulous companions. One of the main reasons for their popularity is that they are seen as ‘low maintenance’ animals who fit in well with our modern, busy lifestyles. While this is true, cats are also very susceptible to stress in their environments, but are very bad at showing it. It is important, therefore, that we as pet owners ensure our houses are as ‘feline friendly’ as possible.

Signs of stress

High levels of stress in cats can lead to both behavioural (mental) problems and also physical illness. One of the most common behavioural symptoms of stress in cats is ‘over-grooming’. Cats will use grooming as a displacement activity and stress reliever but if they are chronically (long term) stressed they can groom themselves bald. Another behavioural change which can indicate stress is a cat urinating or defecating in the wrong place. The underlying causes for this can be varied, from strange cats in the house or garden, to not enough litter trays. Never punish your cat for this, always try to think about the possible causes.

There are also physical signs of stress which can include recurrent cystitis (painful bladder infections) and chronic diarrhoea. However, while it is important to always be aware that these problems can have a stress related component, it is vital to rule out physical illnesses first. If you cat is showing any of these symptoms they should be checked over by a vet to ensure they don’t have problems such as fleas or bacterial infection.

Do remember that not all stressed cats will show obvious symptoms, the majority will simply become withdrawn, grumpy and distant. Some may not show any signs at all, which is why it is so important that we are vigilant and put the measures below in place, even if we don’t think there is a problem.


Multi cat households

Many households have more than one cat, some will be litter mates, but others have been brought together as ‘companions’ by their owners. What is important to realise is that cats are naturally solitary creatures, who in the wild live in loose family groups. They do not have the same need for companionship as humans. Litter mates will often live well together, but living in a group of unrelated cats can be a significant source of stress, particularly if they are of a timid nature.

The most important thing for a cat is that they do not have to compete for their resources, of which there are five principle ones; food, water, a latrine, a rest area and access to the outdoors. Therefore it is vital in multi-cat households that we provide our pets with enough resources so there is no competition and therefore no stress.

Food and water

In practice, this means providing one more food bowl than there are cats, and in households with several cats, more than one feeding area. The best way to feed cats is with dry food left down as they are naturally grazing feeders. Feeding a set meal once or twice daily will make the cats feel under pressure to eat, this can cause competition for food and, as they tend to gorge at these times, over eating and obesity. Also, cats hate to drink water next to their food source. This stems from a time when they were hunters and any water supply near to the prey was likely contaminated. They prefer a wide bowl filled to the brim as they don’t like to catch their whiskers on the sides. Both these reasons are why cats will often drink from the dogs bowl or outside and completely ignore the lovely bowl of fresh water you have left for them!

Rest areas

Always make sure you have enough rest areas in your home for your cats, and they are suited to the preferences and needs. Cats like to get up high, they are after all natural climbers, especially when they feel threatened. Cat trees, combined scratching posts and raised beds are excellent, but ensure you provide one for each cat, so there isn’t competition for the highest spot. If you find your cats clustered in one spot, next to a radiator for example, it is unlikely they are doing so because they like each other, it is more likely it is the only available warm spot or comfy area!

If you have a cat who likes to hide away, ensure they have the facilities to do that, a covered bed is perfect. Remember, to a cat, they are ‘hidden’ if they can’t see you, it doesn’t matter if you can see them!

Litter Trays

Don’t forget the litter trays! Cats hate a dirty tray and will often defecate or urinate elsewhere rather than use one. If you do have trays in the house, always ensure that there is at least one per cat and that they are spread out. Cats will not view two trays next to each other as separate, they are one and the same to them!

Interacting with your cat

Cats are known as ‘high intensity, low frequency’ interactors. This means they prefer to rub past your legs several times a day and accept a quick stroke, rather than spending a whole evening being fussed. Humans, on the other hand, are ‘low frequency, high intensity’ interactors and this can often cause cats unnecessary stress as we would prefer to sit and cuddle for ages while we watch TV in the evening.

As cats are generally solitary, they will not seek out our company like dogs, although they are happy to sit on you when they please! They are at their most secure when they can chose the level of interaction, this is why some cats hate to be picked up but will happily sit on or near you when you are watching TV or on the computer. It is important to remember that cats find unrequested interaction stressful, which is why one the worst things you can do to a timid cat is take them from their hiding place and ‘force’ them to be sociable.

Pheromones

The use of pheromone diffusers and sprays can really help a cat to feel secure and relaxed in their environments. These contain a pheromone scent derived from the one which cats spread when they rub against things. Plug the diffuser in as near as possible to where your cat spends the majority of his time and don’t forget to check it regularly and replace it when it runs out.

If you are concerned that your cats may be stressed, have a chat with your local vets. They should be able to give you advice specific to your situation and make sure your house is as ´Feline Friendly´ as possible!

Pheromones are naturally produced chemical scents which have a behavioural influence. They have been available in the animal world for some time for both dogs and cats. The cat version is called ‘Feliway’ and it is a synthetic version of the scent the cat spreads when it rubs its face up against objects and people. Cats find this scent extremely reassuring and relaxing, as they use it to mark their territory and make themselves feel secure. The dog pheromone is called ‘Dog Appeasing Pheromone’ or DAP. It is a synthetic version of the scent the bitch releases from her mammary glands when producing milk. It is an extremely comforting and relaxing scent to a dog as they associate it with one of the times in their life when they are the safest.


DAP has also been around for some time but a couple of recent clinical trials have been released which have really proved its worth. Firstly, it was used on dogs who were going into kennels, which for some can be a very stressful experience. Dogs wearing a DAP collar, which looks just like a flea collar and releases the scent for about 4 weeks, were shown to be significantly more relaxed and quieter. This study was done by the Dogs Trust and they were so impressed they are now going to be using the collars on all the dogs they have in their rehoming centres. In the second study, puppies who attended training classes were split into groups and half were fitted with collars and half weren’t. Those who wore the collars for 8 weeks while attending the classes were significantly calmer, more confident and better behaved. Not only that but this effect was still present when they were a year old, long after they had stopped wearing the collar. This is a very significant study and proves that a DAP collar could really help give your pup a good start in life and help turn them into a good ‘canine citizens’.


Feliway has been used for some time as a stress reliving technique in cats. It is available as either a plug-in diffuser or as a spray. Cats are very susceptible to stress, especially in the home, but are very bad at showing it. A stressed cat will not seek attention or reassurance, they are more likely to hide away, withdraw from family life and may urinate in the home in an attempt to mark their territory and make themselves feel more secure. Feliway can be used in a variety of situations to help cats feel more relaxed, for example if they have just moved into a new home, or to treat problems which could be related to stress, such as inappropriate urination in the house. It is also extremely helpful in multi-cat households, as cats do not naturally live in close proximity and having to share territory can be a significant source of distress. Several clinical trials have proved that it really helps and I regularly recommend it to my clients.


These pheromones are synthetic versions of natural substances and are not absorbed or processed by the body at all. They have been proven to have a significant effect on our pets, especially in stressful situations and in their early development. They are definitely something every responsible pet owner should consider, especially in multi-cat households and for young puppies. I should also point out that humans can’t smell them at all and they have no effect on us!

The PDSA have recently released a statement warning pet owners that they have seen a marked increase in the numbers of dogs suffering, and dying, from Parvovirus and are advising all dog owners to have their pets vaccinated. Vaccines give a very high level of protection against parvovirus and it is highly unlikely your pet would suffer the infection if they had it. Vaccines are cheap, safe and quick to give and a far better option than having a per seriously ill, or even die, from a completely preventable disease.

Here is some information on Parvovirus;

Parvovirus

** Parvovirus is a highly infectious disease, and is seen most commonly in young, unvaccinated dogs.
** There have been a recent increase in cases, which you may have read about in the national press.
** The virus is shed in huge numbers in the faeces of infected animals and dogs are infected when they come into contact with this faeces.
** The symptoms of parvovirus are; vomiting, diarrhoea (often with blood), lethargy and anorexia.
** Diagnosis is based on the clinical symptoms but there is also now a faecal test that can give a result within minutes.
** There is no specific treatment for animals with parvovirus, only supportive care such as antibiotics, drips, intensive nursing and some other medications can be given while the animal fights the virus themselves.
** The prognosis for infected animals is very poor, they are often do not survive.
** Parvovirus is included in the standard boosters your dog receives, it is generally only vaccinated against every other year.

Cat

In theory it should be easy to feed our pets a great diet, all we need to do is open the packet of food and put it in their bowl, far less hassle than it is for us to ensure we get our ´5-a-day´! However, not all pet foods are equal and while the best quality diets will provide excellent, complete nutrition and dental care, the worst are positively damaging.

So, how do we ensure we feed our pets the best quality food we can afford and how do we get past the advertising and manufactuers claims to the truth? Here are my top tips for making sure you feed your pet the best food you can afford.

** Firstly, try to feed a 100% dry diet, or as close to this as your pet will accept. Not only are dry diets more practical to feed, as you can leave them down and they won´t attract the flies or go off, they also tend to be more economical than wet foods (which are 70% water and therefore not nearly as filling). Dry foods are also available as different ´types´, for example low fat versions, diets for sensitive skin or stomachs or different breeds, whereas wet foods have very little variation. Wet foods are also bad for dental health as they encourage tartar to form on the teeth, but some of the cheaper dry diets are not much better.

** Feed a dry food in which all the kibble are the same size and the same colour. Foods with a variety of shapes and colours in the biscuits are full of additives and e-numbers. They are designed to look interesting for US not the animal, who doesn´t care at all! These additives are bad for your pets health and e-numbers have the same effect on our pets as they do on small children! This rule is also true for small pets such as rabbits, who should be fed the diets which are 100% pellets, not the ´museli´ type diets.

** Don´t buy your pet from from a supermarket, go to a specialist pet store or your vet. The foods on the shelves in the supermarkets are there because they are cheap and have large advertising budgets, not because they are any good.

** Buy the most expensive food you can afford, you definitely get what you pay for! The better quality pet foods are more costly but they are worth the extra money and can work out surprisingly economical as you shouldn´t need to supplement the diet with anything else. A huge amount of common health problems in our pets, such as obesity, dental problems and diabetes can be directly related to a poor diet.

** Consider feeding a ´lifestyle´ diet. There are many different ones of these on the market now and they tend to be produced by the better quality food companies, so you can be sure of their quality! These are designed with the needs of specific animals in mind, varieties include diets for neutered pets, indoor cats, ones with sensitive skins or stomach and many more.

Hopefully this will help you ensure you feed your pet the best quality diet you can, which is probably the single most important thing you can do to help maintain them in the best of health. However, if you are ever in any doubt, ask! Your vets in-particular will be very helpful on this subject and will be happy to advise you.

There has been a lot of stories in the press recently about the rise in numbers of pets being dumped at RSPCA centres and the credit crunch is being blamed. While I am sure that there are many people who are stuggling and may genuinely be devastated that they have to give up their cat or dog, I belive there is also a growing ´throw away´ culture amongst pet owners and animals are being dumped for a range of very trivial regions and are being seen as more and more disposable.

The costs of owning an animal are often cited as the main reason for giving it up and certainly they can be expensive but we should never forget the fact that animals are a privaledge and not a right and when you take one on, you should be sure that you can afford it. Vets often get a hard rap on this subject but they provide an essential service for responsible pet owners. Also, the routine veterinary costs for healthy pet are fairly minimal, the expense only tends to rise when an animal becomes poorly and it should be remembered that this doesn´t happen to all of them. There many options for free or low cost veterinary care if money is an issue and these range from the animal charities, low cost vets and, of course, pet insurance which is something all pet owners should have. I believe that it is only in a minority of cases that the only solution is to give the animal up.

The message that ´a dog is for life and not just for christmas´ has been out there for many years, it is one of the most famous advertising tag lines ever and yet it doesn´t seem to be getting though. Dogs and cats are often bought with little thought for the fact that they represent a comitment that could last twenty years and if any problems arise, many people simply seem them as disposable. It is time to change this attitude and this will involve a concerted effort from charities, vets, breeders and everyone involved in pet ownership, but if we can achieve our aim it will be worth it!

I went to visit the Mayhew Animal Home today which rescues, neuters and re-homes unwanted animals and strays within the north of London and was very impressed by what I saw. The Mayhew is run by a small, but dedicated, team of staff, aided by students and volunteers, and supported by home foster carers. The Mayhew’s emphasis is on responsible pet ownership and it goes to great lengths to promote this for the animals in its care and also to the people who come to adopt new pets. All the animals leave the Mayhew neutered, chipped and vaccinated. They are also assessed for any behavioural issues or health problems and these are fully addressed before the animal is allowed to be rehomed. People who come forward to adopt a pet are assessed for their suitability and the staff discuss at great lengths the commitment of owning a pet and no animal is allowed to leave the shelter unless they are completely happy they are going to a loving home that will provide life-long care.

The care and attention the animals receive at the Mayhew is extraordinary and great emphasis is placed on ensuring each animal is given daily individual attention. All the dogs are played with and walked at least twice a day and all the cats receive cuddles and attention. There is also a secure outdoor area for the cats to play in, which is especially important for the many kittens the Mayhew look after. One fantastic feature of the Mayhew is a large garden for their population of semi-feral cats. These cat cannot be rehomed for various reasons, so the Mayhew neuter, chip and vaccinate them and they live quite happily in a group outside. The garden has many different kennels and hidey holes for all the cats and permanent access to the indoors for rainy days. When I visited, on a fabulously sunny day, many residents were basking in the warm weather and appeared perfectly content. For truly feral cats who would never settle in a confined space they operate a ‘Trap, Neuter and Release’ program, which allows the cats to return to their territories and live in family groups, without the females continually breeding. They also have a dedicated team of foster carers who will take in animals, both dogs and cats, who may be unsuited to a kennel environment or need socialisation in a home environment. This is of great benefit to the animals, especially to feral cats and kittens, who may never adapt to a home life otherwise.

The reason for my visit to the Mayhew was to highlight ‘Kitten Season’, which is currently upon us and the fact that at this time of year the rescue is inundated with queens and their litters, who are either strays or who have been dumped by their owners. The Mayhew do their best, and there are certainly plenty of enquires for the kittens, but supply always exceeds demand and there are always kittens left over, who grow out of the cute and fluffy stage and are therefore much harder to rehome. The most frustrating thing about this situation is that it is so easily avoided by simply ensuring young, female cats are neutered before the age of 6 months. All cats leaving the Mayhew are neutered, even the kittens who are done at 9 weeks old, and the charity offers low cost neutering to the local residents. However, every year it is the same, which is why PetStreet and the Mayhew are working together to get the message out there that all cats should be neutered; it is a quick, cheap, safe procedure which will stop the supply of unwanted kittens in the world.

The Mayhew is a wonderful charity which isn’t simply a rehoming centre. Each animal is individually assessed, cared for and found suitable owners, who have also been extensively briefed on the responsibility of taking on a pet. Through its neutering and education campaigns it aims to stop the problem of unwanted pets at its source and there is nothing they would like better than to see themselves put out of business and we at PetStreet are delighted to help them in that aim.

If you want to learn more about the Mayhew, make a donation, or become a foster carer, you should visit their website at www.mayhewanimalhome.org.

Spring is well and truly here now and the birds and the bees are out! It is the time of year for new beginnings and new life, but that is not always a good thing in the animal world. It is also the middle of ‘Kitten Season’ as the rescue centers become overrun with unwanted new born kittens that entire female cats have produced. The same is true for dogs and puppies, only their breeding is not as seasonal. This is why all responsible pet owners should have their animals neutered as soon as they are old enough, as there are enough unwanted pets in the works already. However, there are a lot of myths surrounding neutering and here is the truth!

Neutering Myths;
Having just one litter is ‘good’ for my pet - There are no benefits either physically or mentally for a female to have a litter, in fact it can be dangerous for her. The act of mating can pass disease, the body is put under great strain during a pregnancy and at the birth, if things go wrong, she may have to undergo a caesarian section which is both risky and expensive.

Neutering is expensive – It does cost money to have a pet neutered, but most vets keep these costs as low as possible to encourage owners to have their pets done. Also, the costs of raising a litter will be far greater than the procedure itself. If money is an issue then there may be charities that could helps such as the Cats Protection League or the RSPCA. In some areas your local council can also issue neutering vouchers.

Neutering is unnatural – Often, the lives we ask our animals to lead are unnatural in themselves and can be frustrating for them. Especially entire males, who can be driven mad by the scent of a female in season nearby. Neutering calms any wandering or mating urges and leave your pet calmer and happier in themselves.

My pet is so nice, I want her to have babies – The truth is that even if your pet is wonderful, by breeding from them you will simply be adding to the pool of animals in the world and with so many animals in rescue centers needing homes, it isn’t fair to bring more into the world.

Neutering is dangerous – All neutering operations require a general anaesthetic and these will always carry some risk. However, in a young, healthy animal the risk is low and these procedures are routine for your vet, who will perform them daily. If you are concerned about the risks, discuss them with your vet but they are rarely enough to justify not neutering your pet. Also, leaving an animal entire can leave them at greater risk of health problems in later life, such as cancer and infections.

Having your cat or dog, male or female, neutered is something all responsible pet owners should do. The procedures are quick, routine and safe and your pet will benefit by being happier and healthier.

Not all easter bunnies are made of chocolate!

Rabbits are now the 2nd most popular pet in the UK, having recently overtaken dogs. They make fantastic pets, and are really easy to look after, provided you follow a few simple rules. However, we often see rabbits in the surgery with health problems that can be easily prevented by knowing the correct way to care for them.

Diet
The mainstay of a rabbits diet should be hay. Every day a rabbit should eat a pile of hay as big as he is! This is essential as it helps keep the teeth ground down and is also good for gut health. One of the most common problems with rabbits we see in the vets is overgrown teeth. The teeth become long and sharp, which cause pain and may even stop the rabbit from eating. Rabbits should also have a small handful of fresh food everyday, carrots, broccoli, cabbage and apples are all suitable. They can also have hard food, but about a tablespoon per rabbit is enough. If rabbits are offered too much hard food, they will not eat the hay. This means they will become overweight and may get teeth problems. The best hard food for rabbits is an all pelleted diet. Rabbits are very intelligent creatures, if they are given the ´mixer´ style rabbit foods, they will eat only their favorite bits, and can become nutritionally deficient.

Vaccinations
All rabbits should be vaccinated at least every year against myxomatosis and viral haemorragic disease (VHD). Both these diseases are deadly and have no cure, vaccination is the only protection against them. They are both passed by fleas from wild rabbits, so although pet rabbits in rural areas are most at risk, suburban rabbits can also catch them as the fleas can be passed via cats and dogs.

Parasites
The most common parasite we see in rabbits is a fur mite. It causes the rabbit to have very flaky skin that can be itchy as well. It is easily treated with ´spot-on´ drops from your vet. They can also get fleas, just like dogs and cats, again these are easily treated with veterinary ´spot-on´ products.

Rabbits do make great pets but take a lot more looking after than people often think and they are not always suitable for children as they can kick and scratch when they are handled. If you are thinking of getting a rabbit why not contact your local rescue, they are over flowing with unwanted animals and will be able to give you lots of advice on how best to care for them.

A recent report has been published which found that 94% of veterinary surgeons blame owners for their pets behavioural

problems and I am afraid I have to agree with them. Many people underestimate the amount of care and attention a dog or cat will need and can inadvertently cause problems to occur. Nobody takes on a pet expecting to have problems but sadly many do and a little thinking and forward planning can prevent a lot of stress and heartache and also, maybe, an abandoned pet.

For example, if you are considering taking on a dog, of any breed, do ensure you have enough time to care for them properly. All dogs need at least one hours of the lead exercise everyday and shouldn´t be left for more than a few hours at a time. Failure to provide this basic level of interation will lead to a bored, understimulated animal and may cause behavioural problems such as destructivness or aggression. Also, all dogs should be trained and given proper boundaries, ´babying´ or spoiling pets simply leads to unhappy animals who can be quite badly behaved.

Cats are often seen as the easy options as pets for our busy lifestyles and in some ways they are; they are independant animals who don´t need constant human interaction and are happy left for periods. However, they are vulnerable to stress and it often emerges as behavioural problems like spraying. The most common cause of stress in cats stems from living in multi-cat households, as cats naturally are solitary animals and don´t cope well with sharing territory.

If you are thinking of getting a pet, or you already have pets and would like another, consider your options carefully and be realistic about your ability to provide them with a suitable home. If you are concerned, or even if you are not, have a chat to the staff at your local vets first. They will be able to give you valuable, realistic advice and may be even able to point you in the direction of a good local breeder or rescue to get your new pet from!

Pedigree Cats Exposed

The recent media storm over pedigree dogs and the problems they can suffer from has highlighted some serious problems within certain breeds and caused a flurry of calls for change. But what about pedigree cats? There is no doubt that, as in dogs, pedigree cats suffer from more problems than their cross-bred counterparts. The Feline Advisory Board (FAB) has several schemes set up to monitor the incidence and genetic basis of disease in some pedigree cats and tracks and records the occurrence of others. There are concerted efforts being carried out by vets and breeders to rid some breeds of particularly debilitating problems, for example screening programs for Polycystic Kidney Disease (PKD) in Persians and Hypertropic Cardiomyopathy (HCM) in Maine Coons. However, these, as with all inherited problems, rely on breeders willing to not breed from affected animals, however good for show they may be, and not exaggerating ‘desirable’ characteristics to the detriment of the animal’s health and welfare.

One of the most popular pedigree cats is the Persian, famed for its short nose and long coat. It could be described as the ‘Bulldog’ of the feline world, a popular breed, instantly recognisable by its flattened face, which, when too extreme, causes significant health and welfare problems. It is fair to say that the majority of the breed suffers problems because of their shortened nose these can range from the fairly mild; stained faces from tears unable to drain down the nose and a propensity to develop tartar on the teeth; to very sore faces and difficultly breathing and eating. They are also prone to developing painful eye ulcers due to their prominent eyes and flattened noses. Many Persians seem to find it difficult to groom their long, thick coats adequately which can lead to matting, they are certainly over-represented in my surgery requiring sedation to have their matted fur clipped away. They are also the most badly affected breed of cat of a disease called ‘Polycystic Kidney Disease’. This is a severe disease of the kidneys and is fatal, but thanks to screening of affected cats, the incidence of this is far less common.

Another breed which suffers for its looks is the Scottish Fold, which, for this reason, is not recognised by the Governing Council of Cat Fancy (GCCF) in the UK but is popular in other countries. The breed is noted for its folded ears, caused by a genetic defect in the cartilage. Cartilage is also present throughout the body in the joints and in these cats it is also defective. Kittens bred from parents who both have folded ears will have crippling joint disease, and so are rarely produced, but even if one parent has straight ears they will suffer to some extent and this is why the GCCF refuses to recognise the breed.

Other popular breeds which have been shown to have a genetic or breed predisposition to problems include Maine Coons and Burmese cats. Main Coon, the giants of the cat world, have been shown to have a genetic predisposition to a heart disease called ‘Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy’ which is a severe degenerative heart disease. It is common in cats in general but strikes Maine Coons at a young age and is more severe. There is now a genetic and ultrasound screening programme to help remove it from the breed. The oriental Burmese is prone to the only recently recognised condition of ‘Feline Orofacial Pain Syndrome’, of the 100 or so confirmed cases, the majority have been Burmese. The symptoms are related to severe pain in the region of the face and the underlying cause is likely a mal-functioning nerve. They are also very prone to developing Diabetes in later life.

Pedigree animals, because of their selected breeding and small gene pools, will always suffer from more health problems than their cross-bred counterparts. This is well recognised amongst the veterinary profession and is reflected by the higher pet insurance premiums you will pay for pedigree cat over a moggy. The ones which concern vets the most are the ones which do affect the animal’s quality of life and it is these that we should concentrate our efforts on. There are now well established screening programmes and records for many conditions but what often slips through the net is the physical characteristics of some breeds which cause welfare issues, such as the flattened nose of the Persian or the hairless skin of the Sphynx. Now that the spot-light has been shone on the pedigree dog world and positive steps are being made to improve their health and welfare we should use this opportunity to also look at cats, what issues they have and how we can work together; vets, breeders, the GCCF and others, to do the same for them.

The dos and don’ts of buying a puppy.

Getting a new dog is an important decision and shouldn’t be undertake lightly. In practice, I see many new puppies that have been bought without much thought, or from puppy farms or bad breeders and the owners aren’t even aware. So, I thought I would write a piece on how to go about researching, finding and buying a new pup.

Do’s;

• Work out what breed is going to be best for your lifestyle and home. Working breeds such as Springer Spaniels are popular family pets but need huge amounts of exercise and stimulation. Smaller dogs and toy breeds such as Jack Russels and Chihuahuas are not necessarily the easy option; they too are very energetic and clever dogs. Also, take care not to spoil a toy dog and ‘baby’ them as this usually leads to a badly behaved pet!

• If you are thinking of getting a pedigree dog, then the best place to start looking for a reputable breeder is the Kennel Club website (www.thekennelclub.org.uk) This will list all the breeders of a certain type of dog in your area, and which ones have litters available.

• Always ensure you see the pups with the Bitch and ask after the Dog as well. Good breeders will be happy to invite you into their home, be able to talk to you about the pup’s pedigree and be happy to discuss their care. Remember the most well adjusted pups will have been born and reared in a home environment.

• Why not consider a rescue puppy or dog, there are thousands of abandoned pets looking for homes. The best charities will ask for a home check, ensure the dog you pick is right for your lifestyle and provide you with on-going support.

Don’ts

• NEVER, NEVER agree to buy a pup which the breeder offers to deliver; this isn’t because they are being nice but because they don’t want you to see where your pup was bred. This is a common tactic of puppy farms, where the conditions for the dogs are dreadful.

• Never buy a puppy from a pet shop. You won’t know any of the pup’s history and they often come from disreputable sources as the shops need a regular, constant supply.

• Never buy a puppy because you feel sorry for it or want to ‘rescue’ it. This will only encourage disreputable breeders and you will likely end up with a sickly pup. The best thing to do is WALK AWAY and report the breeder to the RSPCA or Trading Standards.

• Make sure that you know how much your chosen breed of dog should cost. Puppy farms and disreputable breeders will sell pups for much cheaper than they should be, another clue these dogs will not be well bred or brought up.

• Never buy a dog advertised in a newspaper. Good breeders rarely need to advertise their litters. Also, never use an advert that lists only a mobile phone number. This will usually be a pre-paid phone and thrown away once the litter is sold, meaning you have no comeback or contact if things go wrong.

• If your pup is a registered pedigree, then all the papers will be with them when you take them home. If the breeder claims they don’t have the forms and they will “send them in the post”, don’t expect to receive any! Kennel club pedigrees are printed on official paper, a rough photocopied sheet is not proof of pedigree. Also, if pups have been vaccinated they should come with an official card signed by a vet.

• Never buy a puppy as a present, unless the recipient is fully aware and happy to have it.

Alzheimer’s Disease in Cats

A recent study has been published which has shown that cats suffer from a disease very similar to Alzheimer’s in people as they age. It has long been known that senile problems are common in older cats but now there is proof of a specific disease process.

In Alzheimer’s thick, gritty plaques of material build up in the brain, tangling up the nerves and slowing them down. These plaques have been found in the brains of older cats before but now a specific protein has been discovered which also occurs in human patients with the disease. This will help human research as because of cat’s shorter lifespans scientists will be able to monitor the effect of diet, lifestyle and blood pressure on the progression of symptoms more easily and it will also mean vets can hopefully develop specific treatments for this disease in cats as well.

Senile changes, or to give it its proper name ‘Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome’(CDS) is common in older cats. Symptoms include; loss of sleep patterns, loss of toilet training, changes in behaviour (cats can become either more affectionate and attention seeking, or they can become withdrawn), inappropriate vocalisation (meowing loudly for no good reason) and forgetfulness.

It is important to rule out other illnesses before diagnosing senility, so if your vet is worried about your cat they will likely want to examine them, perform blood and urine tests and check their blood pressure. One disease that is common in old cats and can cause significant behavioural changes is arthritis. The pain in the joints can make cats less active, more withdrawn and grumpy. It is a very important disease to rule out in older cats and treatment can be very effective.

If your cat is suffering with CDS then there are things you can do to help;
• Diet change – several of the better quality diets for senior cats are enriched with anti-oxidants and essential fatty acids which have been shown to improve brain health any symptoms of CDS. These will be available from your vet and you can ask their advice on what is best to feed.
• Supplements – there are now supplements available from your vet which have been shown to improve senile symptoms in dogs and are believed to be as beneficial in cats. These also are a combination of anti-oxidants, essential fatty acids and vitamins which slow free radical damage to the brain cells and increase the blood flow to the brain.
• Environmental enrichment – just as in people, if cats are not mentally stimulated and have companionship, they are more likely to develop senile problems. Ensure your cat has toys to play with and regular interaction with people to keep them alert and active.
• Medication – if a cat is very badly affected with CDS there are medications that can be tried to improve the symptoms. However, they work best if the methods above are used as well.

If a cat is very badly affected with CDS then any environmental changes can be very distressing, so if they need to be done, for example moving a litter tray so it is more easily accessible, they should be done slowly and with lots of reassurance. Some cats do well if their movement is restricted to a single room, with all their amenities, food water, litter trays etc, close by. This way they do not have to move far and their environment can be made safe and constant. Also, they use of feline pheromone products (Feliway) can be very helpful in reducing a cats anxiety.

It’s never too early to think about Summer Holidays!

Summer holidays may seem a long way off at the moment but if you are planning to go away with a furry friend this year then you should get down to the vet as soon as possible!

The PETS travel scheme has been up and running now for several years, it is a way of being able to take your pets in and out of the country for holidays, whereas previously any animal entering Britain from abroad would have had to spend six months in quarantine. However, you have to ensure that all the requirements for the scheme are met or you could find your pet stranded!

Rabies and Microchipping

The most important part of the scheme is that your pet has to be microchipped and vaccinated against rabies. The chip has to be in place before the vaccine. A blood test is taken at least four weeks after the vaccination to measure the levels of rabies protection in the blood to ensure they are high enough. If they are not (and it is unusual for them not to be) the process will need to be repeated. Once a positive blood test has been confirmed the animal cannot come back into the country until 6 months AFTER the date of the blood test being taken. You can take them out at any time but you cannot bring them back in. This is why it is important to start the process at this time of year if you are planning to go away in the summer. Rabies boosters are required every 2 years.

Ticks and worms

All animals have to be treated against ticks and worms within 24 hours of returning to the UK and this treatment has to be verified by a vet. There are now vets set up at most of the border crossings to do this for you. This is very important as there are several parasites present on the Continent which aren’t in Britain, so we need to keep them out and they can cause serious disease in your pet.

Pet passport

All the information about your pet, their chip and vaccine history are kept in a pet passport, which needs to be signed and stamped by an ‘official’ vets. Most practices will have at least one vet who is able to stamp passports. The passport can be stamped at any time once all the tests have been done and confirmed. It both the vets and your responsibility that the passports are correctly filled out, if they are not you could be refused re-entry to Britain.

Taking your pet on holiday can be very rewarding for you both, but do consider it carefully before you decide to take them. The PETS scheme isn’t something undertaken lightly, there are a lot of requirements and it can be expensive. Also, going abroad is not risk free despite the vaccines and anti-parasite treatment, pets can pick up serious diseases. Consider as well the amount of travelling and the heat, especially for long coated breeds.

Look out for a Pet Passport Factsheet coming soon!

If you have any questions about this or any other pet related subject you should contact your vet.

At this time of year a lot of us are thinking about our waist lines and planning a diet, but what about our pets? Obesity is a growing problem among the pet population. At least 20% of dogs and cats are thought to be obese. It is a problem which causes animals to be at risk of many other diseases, but can be easily treated with dietary control and exercise changes. So, I have compiled a list of ‘Top Tips’ to help you help your pet lose weight!

Top Tips for Tip Top weight loss!

•Encourage good eating habits from when your pet is young;
*Feed your pet only at meal times and do not give in to demands for extra food.
*Use treats only as a training aid or a reward for good behaviour
*Do not vary the food too much; this will encourage your pet to be fussy.
*Do not encourage begging behaviour by giving in to it.

•Weigh out your pets food.
*Never estimate the amount you feed your pet, always weigh it out.
*Use a see though plastic container to mark on the amount of food, so you do not have to weigh it out every day.
*If you feed a mixed diet of dry and tinned food, remember to reduce the recommended daily allowances of each to ensure you do not overfeed.

•Feed twice daily instead of once
*Feeding two small meals a day compared to one large one can really help to keep your pet feeling full, and stop them begging for treats when they get hungry

Feed an appropriate diet for your pet
*Consider switching to a ´light´ diet if your pet is over weight, or prone to gaining weight.
*There are now specific diets for neutered pets, mainly cats, which are lower in calories and help prevent other health problems.
*Don’t feed working breeds, such as Labradors and Springer Spaniels, a working breed food unless they are actually used for working, as these are very high in calories.

•Cut back on treats
*Treats and ´extras´ can really add calories to your pets diet, try to cut back on them as much as possible,
*Only reward your pet when they have done something worth rewarding.
*Remember, your attention and fuss is just as important to your pet as a treat.
*When you do treat your pet, look at what is in your hand and break it in half, instantly halving the amount of calories they take in!
*Try treating your pet with carrots instead of biscuits.

•Use a ´daily food tub´
*Keep the plastic container with your pets daily food allowance on the side. Use the biscuits out of that to treat them or give them extras.
*When the tub is empty, you know your pet has had their daily allowance, and they shouldn´t have any more.
*This is particularly good for families where more than one person feeds or treats your pet, as everyone knows when the tub is empty, that’s it for the day!

•Do not give table scraps
*Table scraps are one of the biggest culprits for encouraging your pet to gain weight and if they need to go one a diet, they should be cut out completely.
*Human food is often loaded with calories, and many animals stomachs cannot cope with its richness.
*If you cannot resist your pets pleading eyes at the table, then remove them from the room while you are eating.

•Increase your pets exercise
*This is vital if your pet is to lose weight or maintain a healthy weight.
*Dogs should have at least 1 hours off the lead exercise every day.
*Encourage cats to play, or let them outside.

•Make sure they are not getting fed elsewhere
*This is particularly relevant for cats, who will often pop to the neighbour’s for a second breakfast!
*However, many dogs will often spend the day with family or friends while their owners are out at work.
*Make sure everybody knows that your pet is on a diet and not too feed them any extras.

If you are concerned about your pets weight, take them along to the vets. All vets will have scales they can stand on and you will be able to find out their ideal weight. You shouldn´t need an appointment for this and most vets and vet nurses will happily advise you on how to help you pet shed a few pounds, without charge.

Today I have seen a very sad case which highlights a very common problem and I thought I should tell you all about it.

A 9 month old border collie came into my clinic, he had been vomiting for 5 days and now wasn´t even keeping water down. He was very depressed, dehydrated and his tummy was sore. We put him on a drip, sedated him and took x-rays of his abdomen. We found a child’s magnetic toy in the middle of his intestines. He is going to need emergency surgery to remove the toy which is going to cost his owners at least £600.

When we x-rayed him we also found that he was very fat for his age and this gave me a big clue as to why he had eaten that toy.......he was bored!

Collies are a working breed and although they are often kept as pets, they are not always suitable. Firstly, they need a huge amount of exercise, at least a couple of hours a day off the lead and they also need to be mentally stimulated. They are very clever dogs, having been bred to be easy and quick to train, if they are left on their own for large parts of the day without anything to do, or not exercised enough, they will become bored and frustrated. This can lead to behavioural problems such as destructive behaviour, chewing and eating things they shouldn´t and even aggression.

If you have a border collie, or any working breed, not only do you need to exercise them for a couple of hours every day, you should also work to keep them mentally busy. Play games while you are on a walk, such as fetch and also more challenging ´search and find´ games as well. If you leave the dog in the house, keep them busy by hiding treats around the house for them to find, or leave them with a ´Kong´ toy stuffed with biscuits for them to play with. Another great thing to try is agility classes, collies are really good at this and it can be a great way of keeping them stimulated and fit.

I felt compelled to write about this subject as it is not the first time I have seen this problem in a young, overweight, bored collie. The last time the dog was put to sleep as his owner couldn´t afford the surgery, which was heart breaking and could so easily have been prevented.

This is an article I wrote for a local magazine and I thought guys might like to read it.

Is winter putting the gyp in their joints?

Thanks to better care, higher quality diets and more advanced veterinary medicine, our pets are living longer and fuller lives than ever before. However, this does mean that our older pets suffer from more problems and one of the most common of these is arthritis. Animals will suffer with sore joints more in the colder weather, just like us, so often the symptoms are more noticeable at this time of year.

What is arthritis?

Arthritis is a variable condition which can range from your pet being stiff after rest or exercise to crippling joint disease. It can strike at any age but is most common in older pets. It is caused by the smooth surfaces of the joints becoming roughened and inflamed. It can occur in any joint in the body, but is most common in the hips, elbows and stifles (knees)

What are the symptoms of arthritis?

The symptoms of arthritis can be subtle in the early stages but include; stiffness after rest or exercise, recurring lameness (limping) in one or more legs, reluctance to jump up or climb the stairs or sore or swollen joints. Older cats suffer from arthritis very commonly, but their symptoms can be difficult to spot as if they are sore, cats will simply move around less. Look out for your cat being quieter or grumpier than normal, changing their sleeping places (especially if they liked to get up high), or being less able to jump and climb. Also keep an eye on their grooming habits; cats with arthritis are often stiff and cannot reach to groom over their backs or hind quarters and can often become dirty and matted.

How is arthritis treated?

There are many different ways to treat arthritis and different things work best in different animals. The first main treatment is Neutraceuticals, these are supplements which help to maintain the joints in as healthy state as possible. They are most helpful in the early stages of the disease, or as an adjunct to medications where they can reduce the doses required. Medications, these are often required in order to keep affected animals as pain free as possible. These are anti-inflammatory pain relievers that reduce both the soreness and the inflammation in the joint. They are generally very safe, can be used over long periods and most pets only need small doses to keep them comfortable. There are other Complementary Treatments which can be used to help. The most common of these are Acupuncture and Hydrotherapy (swimming).

Arthritis is a very common condition and most older pets will suffer to some degree. If the signs are spotted early and treatment started, it can make a real difference to your pet’s quality of life and keeping them pain free and happy in their senior years!

Did you know that this time of year is actually the worst for flea infestations in our pets? You wouldn´t think it with all the old weather we are having but its true! It is all down to the fact that we have all turned our central heating on, giving the fleas a warm and cosy home for the winter. The fleas cannot survive outside because it is too cold, but they can happily breed in the carpets and soft furnishings.

Ensure that you treat all your pets with a spot-on flea treatment from your vets (or from the PetStreet shop) and it is also a good idea to treat the house. The adult fleas represent only 5% of the total infestation, the other 95% are the eggs and larvae which develop in the environment. There are sprays which will stop this development. They are active for 12 months so you only need to do that once a year.

For more information about fleas have a read of my factsheet, and don´t forget to visit the PetStreet shop for your flea treatment!

http://www.petstreet.co.uk/Factsheet/309253.Fleas%20Part%20I
http://www.petstreet.co.uk/factsheet/307294.Fleas%20Part%20II

Today I saw a puppy that was clearly bred on a puppy farm, but had been shipped out to a private home to hide that fact and I wanted to let you all know about this very worrying consult.

Sadly, every so often I see a puppy who has been bred on a puppy farm. There are a lot of puppy farms based in Wales and being in the West MIdlands, not too far away, a lot of them end up here. These puppies are advertised in the local newspapers, often in an advert that lists several different breeds available from the same place. They will always give a mobile as the contact number, never a land line, and when you ring may not know an awful lot about the pups when you ask questions. The one thing that make it clear that they are puppy farms, it that they will always offer to deliver the pups, often making it sound as if they are doing you a favour. This is because they don´t want you to see the squalid conditions these dogs are bred in.

I always ask my clients ´Did you go far to get this pup?´, and if they tell me that is was delivered, I always make it clear it was likely bred at a puppy farm. These dogs are generally delivered out of the back of a van, by a man who cares far more about the money than the dog. They often have been given no access to water or food on their journeys and the people who deliver them know nothing about their diet or how best to care for them.

However, today I saw a pup which came from a private home but was clearly bred on a puppy farm. The man wo brought it to me was told that the owner of the litter had died and they had been moved to this house in order to be sold. Neither of the parents were with the pups, who were supposed too be around 12 weeks old, although this one looked smaller to me. The pup came with paperwork that had been produced in Wales, which confirmed it for me that this pup was indeed puppy farm bred.

This could be a very concerning development from the puppy farms, if they are moving the litters to private homes to be sold as normal pups. Most people are now aware they should see the pups in the home environment and maybe this is why there is this change. You should ALWAYS see a litter of pups with the mother, regardless of how old they are and if this is not possible you should be very susipicous.

Puppy farms are awful places, where puppies are bred in terrible conditions. The bitches will have several litters within a short space of time, often never seeing the light of day while with their babies. At least the pups get out of the farms, the bitches are stuck until they are no longer useful. Also, the people who breed these dogs pay very little attention to their pedigrees, meaning these pups can be more at risk from disease and probems in later life.

Always, ALWAYS, buy a dog from a registered breeder, or at least from a home environment where you can see both the pups and mum. If you are at all suspicious or unsure about the puppies upbringing then WALK AWAY, you may think you are ´saving´ this pup, but in the long term you will condem more to these terrible circumstances.

This funny story was in one of the recent veterinary mags and it made me smile so I thought I would share it with you;

A Vets Now clinic had a visit from riot police carrying a wiggly pillowcase after a snake went on the loose in Belfast. Officers from the Police Service of Northen Ireland were dispatched in full body armour and face shields - and carrying night sticks and riot shields- when a city resident reported seeing a snake slithering across her living room floor. Police took the 18 inch corn snake, which was later found to be called Jake, to Vets Now´s Belfast clinic for a health check. Jake had escaped from a neighbouring home and was later reunited with its owners. However, veterinary staff at the clinic had to break the news to them that Jake the snake was, in fact, a she!

I am sure the snake was far more afraid of the police than them of him, imagine having a whole troop of officers in full riot gear bearing down on you!

Today I have seen a lady who bought a new pup yesterday which had been bred in appalling conditions and was very poorly, and it is not the first time I have seen this situation. The pup was a ´pedigree´ Springer Spaniel, although it had no papers and it was docked, which is now illegal unless done by a vet on a dog destined to be working. When the lady went to the house, after answered an advert in the local bargain pages, she found a litter of 7 pups and mum in a freezing cold shed. There were also 2 other pregnant bitches, the next in the production line. The shed had just been cleaned, and all the pups were sitting on a wet floor and shivering. The lady chose her pup, paid £150 (about the third of the price of a properly bred Springer Spaniel) and told me she felt she had ´rescued´ him from this dreadful situation.

She brought the pup to me today as, unsurprisingly, it isn´t well. It is hugely bloated with worms and crawling with fleas. It was also very thin and may have a chest infection. I realise it is very emotional seeing pups in this state but to buy one is not a good idea, they are likely to be badly bred and not given the correct nutrition for growing. They tend to be sickly pups and often suffer with health problems as adults, the cost of which can far outweigh the ´saving´ of buying a cheap puppy. It is easy to think that you are ´rescuing´ a pup from these situations but in reality all you are doing is perpetuating the problem, as the breeder makes his money and will carry on. The best thing to do is walk away and report them to the RSPCA, who will inspect them, and remove the animals if they judge the situation bad enough. You can report anonymously and it can take a couple of days for them to go round, so they shouldn´t associate any visits with you.

There has been a lot of debate on Petstreet and in the press recently about dog breeding and the Kennel Club. However, I believe it is the unscrupulous ´backyard´ breeders, and there a huge number out there, who are doing more damage and cruelty to dogs and it is these people against whom our efforts should be concentrated. I would like to see all dog breeders registered and required to meet certain welfare standards or face fines. This should soon weed out the bad ones, who care only about the money and not the animals.

Cat

Don´t forget that September is Pet Smile Month and lots of vets are offering FREE dental check-ups to all their clients, and you should receive a free dental pack as well.

80% of dogs and cats over the age of 3 years suffer from some degree of dental disease, so it is incredibly important to look after their teeth.

Look out for my Dental Factsheets which should be coming soon, which are packed with advice about how to care for your pets teeth.

Cat

I know I have blogged about this before, but in the past few days I have seen three, yes THREE, rabbits with fly strike. The flies seem to be enjoying this warm, damp weather we have been having. Also, rabbits are sitting on damp grass or in damp hutches, sitting targets for the flies and their eggs.

So if you have rabbits you MUST;
** Check them at least twice daily, turn them over and inspect their bottoms. If they are damp or dirty, ensure they go back into the cage clean and dry. Do not think house rabbits are immune, flies get into the house don´t they?!
** Use a fly repellent from your vet, the ones from the petshop or any homemade remedies will simply NOT be stop enough. There are 2 different products available; Rearguard, which is both a fly repellent and will stop eggs developing, it is a liquid which is ´painted´ all over the rabbits backend; or Xenex, which is a fly repellent only but also works against mites and fleas, it is a ´spot-on´ similar to those used in cats and dogs.

If you are at all concerned, take your pet to the vets, they will be very good at hunting out maggots, they know all the crevices where they hide!

Amazingly, all three of the rabbits have survived their attacks. Two were caught early but the third was very advanced and is going to need extensive reconstructive surgery to repair the damage the maggots caused.

Please check your rabbits!

Hello!

I have watched the program and was really interested in what I saw.
It highlighted some important issues and exposed the incredibly blinkered
attitude of some dog breeders, astonishing for people who claim to be dog
lovers. So, here are a few of my thoughts on the situation;

The gaits of the GSDs in the show ring were shocking, it was clear to me
that they were severely abnormal. Luckily I have seen few in my practice as
bad as this, German Shepherds get a lot of arthritic problems as they age (in common
with many breeds) but this severe is thankfully unusual. I think that
portion highlighted an important issue, the blinckeredness of the show
judges and breeders to faults. While not all are as obvious as this, why
not have an independent person in the ring, from the veterinary profession
perhaps, to observe alongside the judge? Whose role would be to pick up on
welfare and health issues such as this, without any knowledge of the ´breed
standard´. No vet or vet nurse would let a gait like that pass without
comment. The show judges comment that the show GSDs are more ´anatomically
correct´ with respect to the shape of their hips shows the extreme lack of
understanding and misuse of language amongst the show community.

Along the same lines, why not have all KC reg dogs vet examined before they
are registered to breed? This would soon weed out the worst examples of the
breeds. For example, that pug with all those problems would never be
advised as a breeding dog by a vet. Maybe they should all be checked from a
breeding health point of view? I would love to see animals which have had
surgery to correct genetic faults ( like the peke with the overlong soft
palate) banned from show or breeding, but my fear is people simply wouldn´t
have the surgery and thus the individual dog would suffer even more.

The comments for the Ridgeback breeder that dogs without ridges should be
destroyed is truly shocking and totally morally reprehensible. How anybody
can put down a healthy dog purely for cosmetic reasons is beyond me, and
clearly beyond the majority of ´young vets´ as she puts it. The fact she
has to find an ´old vet´, who will stem from an era when such practice was
common-place and acceptable, shows how modern thinking has moved on, and she
is now the one viewed in the wrong. Also, the acceptance of close family
breeding ( son to daughter etc) also shocked me, I would have thought this
would be banned. There is clear evidence that this will only lead to more
problems and the corrections of the ´faults´ the breeders see is likely to
lead to more problems for more dogs.

There are things being done to remove breed faults and we should also not
lose fact of the sight that many pedigree breeds are not badly affected with
problems. The hip and eye score schemes for breeds such as the Labrador
have been in place for some time and have improved things. However, these
are issues which are of clear detriment to the dog while having little
effect on the ´breed standards´. The KC should definitely do more to reduce
the more serious problems, like the shortness of the noses in the pugs and
pekes, or the excess skin folds in so many breeds.

I understand the KC is in a difficult position, the breeders are the ones
who have really driven the changes in the breeds and who are blind to their
faults. However, I feel more could be done. I think requiring all breeding
animals to pass a health check would be a great idea and would help some
breeds but not all. The other side of the coin is to educate the people who
go to buy these dogs. You should always ensure a pedigree animal comes from
a registered breeder. We have seen this is no guarantee of success but their
dogs should be better than those simply ´backyard´ bred, or worse, from
puppy farms. Always ensure that if there are any tests a pedigree dog
should pass, like the hip scoring, that they have done so and got a good
score. Educate yourself on the breed you wish to buy, find out about their
problems and if there is anything being done to help them. If the more
responsible breeders, the ones who put the health, not the looks of their
animals first, are encouraged, more will follow. Always insure a pedigree
animal as there is no doubt they suffer from problems, and if you are
concerned, buy a mongrel.

Thanks,

Cat.

The healing power of the body never ceases to amaze me! Check out the pictures in my work album. A cat came in about 4 weeks ago with a HUGE hole in the side of its face where are cat bite abscess had burst. With treatment, this hole healed inside a month and the cat has made a full recovery. The pictures are not for the faint hearted though, you have been warned!


Cat bite abscesses occur when a cat gets bitten or scratched, usually by another cat but they can occur from any bite injury. Teeth and nails are teeming with bacteria, and these get introduced to the fatty layers under the skin when they pierce it. The cats immune system fights the infection by creating a large amount of pus. This engulfs the bacteria and eventually puts the skin under a lot of strain until it bursts. This then sends the pus flooding out, taking with it the bacteria and the bulk of the infection. This is why if a vet finds an unburst abscess, they will lance it and drain the pus. Most cat bite abscesses will require anti-biotics to heal them.

** IMPORTANT**
If a person is ever bitten or badly scratched by a cat, medical advice should be sought as soon as possible. The bacteria they introduce can be dangerous and you may require anti-biotic treatment.

Final Goodbyes – Euthanasia in pets

There comes a time in every animal owner´s life when you have to make some very difficult decisions and say your final goodbyes to a beloved pet. This decision is never easy to come to but it is one of the most important ones you will ever make for them. Euthanasia is a blessing that the veterinary world has; the ability to relieve an animal´s suffering before it becomes too great. Many people cling to the hope that their precious pet will slip away peacefully in their sleep, so they will never have to make that final, heart-breaking trip to the vets. However, it rarely happens that way and it is possible to leave an animal too long, waiting for the moment they will pass away by themselves. Although it can be distressing, it is important to think about your pet´s final day, how you would like it to go and what you would like to do with their body. It can be extremely difficult to consider things clearly through the grief, so if you have discussed and decided beforehand, it will make a significant difference.

How do I know when its time?

The circumstances through which an animal will come to the end of its life are varied. Maybe they are old and have been slowing down for some time, or have been suffering with an illness that has finally overtaken them. Sometimes, more tragically, it can be very fast, an injury from which they will never recover or a sudden decline in health that was not expected. In many cases the decision is taken away from you, as it is clear what needs to be done, but in others, especially when an older animal has been slowing down for some time, it can be difficult to decide when to say goodbye. What is paramount is the animal´s quality of life and whether living is still the joy it should be, or whether it is now a struggle. Try asking yourself these questions if you are confused;

l Does your pet get up to greet you in the morning and when you come home, or do they stay in their bed, uninterested in your presence?
l Are they still keen to eat their food and look forward to meals or do they have to be tempted to eat?
l Are they able to get up and about, to do their toilet and enjoy the sunshine, or are they unable or unwilling to move themselves?
l Are they interested in their own comfort? Will they find a comfortable spot to lie in, or will they just flop down wherever they are?

Animals for whom life has become a trial are often uninterested in their surroundings, their owners or themselves. It is a cliché but it is true, when the time comes for a pet you have known for a long time, you do know when you make that decision that you are doing the right thing. This does not necessarily make it any easier, but it does mean you know in your heart it is the correct path to take.

How is it done?

The first thing to decide is where you would like your pet put to sleep. Most people will bring them to the vets, but a few prefer the vet to come out to their homes. Remember it will be more expensive to call the vet out, and they may not be able to come at a time of your choosing, as they will be busy in the surgery. However, vets will always be sympathetic at a time like this and do their best to accommodate you. If you come to the surgery, always let the receptionist know why you are coming. A good receptionist will book you in at the beginning or end of a clinc, so you will not have to wait too long. If you do not wish to stay in the waiting room, simply let the staff know. They should always be able to put you in a private room, or call you in from the car when they are ready.

When an animal is put to sleep, a lethal injection is given into one of its veins. This travels directly to the heart and the brain, stopping the heart and making the animal lose consciousness. It works within seconds. In cats and dogs this is usually into one of the veins that runs in the front leg. In horses, it is given into the jugular vein in the neck. In rabbits a vet may use an ear vein but often will give the injection into the chest or tummy. In smaller animals such as guinea pigs, hamsters and rats, their veins are too small for the needles, so again the injection would be given into the chest or abdomen.

All your pet will feel is the prick of the needle, and then the feeling for them is exactly the same as going to sleep in their basket at night. Some vets will use a local anaesthetic to numb the skin, others may place a catheter into the vein. This means when the injection is given, there is no pain and with a catheter, should your pet move, they will not need to be injected again.

If your pet is fractious or nervous in the vets, do let them know. It is very important they stay still for the injection and don´t struggle. If you feel this may be a problem it is possible for the vet to sedate your pet beforehand so they remain relaxed and calm. It can be extremely distressing for both you, your pet and the vet, if something goes wrong.

The vet will ask you to sign a form giving them permission to go ahead and they will bring a nurse in to help them hold your pet. The nurse will hold the front leg steady for the vet to inject. If you want to stay with your pet you will be able to hold their head and talk to them. If you do not wish to stay, simply let the vet know. They will give you a few minutes to say goodbye in private.

Once it is over the vet will check their heart to ensure they are gone. In the first few minutes afterwards they may quiver or gasp but it is just the energy leaving the muscles. They may also lose control of their bowels or bladder but do not worry, the vet will know to expect it and will not mind.

Take as long as you need to say goodbye, do not feel like you have to leave straight away, vets know this is difficult time and will understand. Do not forget to take you pets collar and lead if you wish.

What happens next?

Once it is done you will then have to decide what you wish to do with your pet´s body. In general there are three options. You can take them home to bury, but this can be difficult with larger dogs.You can let the vets look after them and the body will be cremated. The third option is that an individual cremation can be arranged and you can have your pet´s ashes returned to you. This can be expensive and will generally cost from £100 upwards. However, you will be able to keep your pet, or bury them more easily, since they are usually returned in a wooden casket.

It is better if you think about these options beforehand. That will allow you to discuss with the family what would be best and also you won´t have make any decisions on the day, which will be upsetting enough. However, if you cannot decide at the time, simply let the vet know, they will be able to look after your pet´s body for a couple of days.

Coming to the end of your pet’s life and having them put to sleep is never easy. There are important decisions to make with respect to whether you wish to stay with your pet, who would like to be there, where you would like it done and what to do with the body. Although it is difficult, try to think things through before it comes to the day, this will mean it is much less stressful and you will be able to grieve without distractions. Your vet will always be sympathetic, they may have done it many times but they will not be immune to the grief and distress. They will do their best to ensure everything goes smoothly and your wishes are accommodated. Above all, it is the best interests of your pet that you and the vet have at heart. Deciding to end their lives is never easy, but it is the kindest way. Very rarely do animals die on their own and without suffering. Euthanasia is a blessing and one of the most important things you will ever do for

Just a quick update on the kittens we are hand rearing for you all. They are growing fast and we have started to wean them in the last few days. They have taken to it well, although they still get the occasional milk meal.

When we wean kittens we mix a good quality kitten dry food with the milk replacer they have been having. We soften the biscuits and mix them with the milk until it becomes a porridge type consistency. The mix is then placed on a flat saucer and given to the kittens. At first they don´t know what to do and will simply paddle in it, it is quite a messy time! However, because of the milk it tastes familiar and they start to lick it off their paws. Quite quickly they learn to lap and eat the mix. Gradually we will reduce the amount of milk until they are eating the hard biscuits. It won´t be long now!

Have a look at my album for a picture of one of the kittens tucking in!

I have posted some pictures in my album of a litter of four kittens that were brought into our surgery this week. They are about 2 weeks old and there mother was no-where to be found. They were very thin and hungry, so one of our nurses has taken them on and is now hand rearing them. We get litters brought in like this every so often and we get asked a lot of questions about hand rearing. So, I thought I would write a quick guide to hand rearing kittens here, it is not as easy as you would think!

What to feed them;
- You should always hand rear kittens using a good quality kitten specific milk replacer. We use Cimicat in our practice but there are others out there.
- Avoid using a general ´baby animal´ milk replacer as it is unlikely to contain the correct nutrition.
- It is best to make up a new batch of milk every time you feed. However it will keep for a short while but no longer than 12 hours maximum.
- Always make the milk the same each time, there will be a guide on the packet as to how much water to add to the powder, it is very important for the kittens digestive system that the milk is consistent.
- The milk should be at about body temperature, try to keep it the same every time.
- A good tip is to have the same person make the milk each time, even if there is a team helping to rear the kittens. This will ensure the milk is always the same.
- If you do change the type of milk replacer, for whatever reason, do it SLOWLY. Suddenly changing from one type to another will upset the kittens digestion, and could be fatal.

How often should they be fed?
- There will be a guide to follow on the tub of the milk replacer but remember that all the kittens are individuals and may suit slightly different regimes.
- As a general guide;
*1-3 weeks - every 2 hours
* 4-7 weeks - 10-12 times daily
* 8-10 weeks - 6 times daily
- From about 4 weeks you can start to wean the kittens, but you should continue feeding the milk replacer as well.
- To wean we use a good quality kitten kibble and mix it with the milk replacer to make a porridge.

How much should they be fed?
- Again, this depends very much on the kittens themselves, but as a general rule very young kittens, from day old to a week or so, may only take a few mls each feed, but as they grow, they can take upto 10ml each time.
- Use the instructions on the tub as a general guide.
- A full kitten will be nice and sleepy with a full belly, they will usually stop suckling when they have had enough.
- Hungry kittens are noisy! They will let you know when they need a feed!
- A good tip is to weigh the babies every day and record the results. Well fed, healthy kittens will grow and put on weight every day.
- If kittens are fed too much it can damage their kidneys (which will still be immature and not able to deal with large volumes of fluid) and give them diarrhoea.
- If kittens are fed too little they will quickly dehydrate, which can be fatal.

How do I feed them?
- There are plenty of different makes of feeding bottles on the market, so shop around.
- However, in our experience a lot of the bottles and teats are too large for tiny kittens to suckle on properly.
- We use a syringe with or without a teat on the end, depending on what the babies take to and if we can find one small enough.
- This way we can control the speed of the milk going in with the plunger and also easily measure the amount they are drinking.
- Always sit the kitten upright to feed and always ensure they are suckling. It is easy for the milk to dribble in even if they are not suckling and swallowing. If that occurs it can trickle into the lungs, which can be fatal.
- Look at the pictures in my blog for how to feed the kittens.

Keeping them clean!
- A mother cat will constantly be licking and cleaning her babies to keep them spotless. It is impossible to replicate this level of care but it is important to regularly clean the kittens.
- After every meal they should be ´Topped and Tailed´.
- Firstly, clean any dribbles from around their mouths and faces.
- Secondly, and this is the most important bit, rub their bottoms with a piece of cotton wool. This will stimulate the kitten to wee and poo. This is very important as it keeps the guts moving and prevents them from becoming constipated. It is also very practical as it is easier to clean them at this stage than when they poo in their beds and then paddle in it!

Where should I keep them?
- We tend to keep our kittens in a cat basket, one of the kinds with a top opening lid.
- The base is lined with several blankets and a hot water bottle. The most important thing is to keep the babies at a consistent, warm temperature.
- It also makes them nice and portable, as with feeding them every 2 hours, they are going to have to go everywhere with you!

Other Tips;
- Closely monitor the kittens every day, weigh them, take note of their poo, appetites and activity levels. Any kitten which seems to be struggling or weak should be immediately separated from the rest of the litter and taken to the vets.
- CONSISTANCY is the key. ensuring the milk is the same each time, the feeds are regular and the routine of topping and tailing is stuck to.
- Hygiene is also vital, as with any young animal. Ensure the bottles, teats and syringes are kept scrupulously clean, and any poo in the basket is cleaned immediately.
- If you are in any doubt, ASK, your local vets should be your first point of call with any young litter of kittens, they will be a font of knowledge in this area and will be keen to help you.

Golly, what a long blog! Check out the pictures of the babies, I will keep you up to date on their progress!

Take a look at the new x-rays I have posted in my picture album. One is of a heavily pregnant bitch, the puppies in the abdomen can be clearly seen and the other is of a cat which had been shot several times with air gun pellets.

I will be posting pictures from my work regularly in my album, so make sure you check it out often!

I have started a new club today for all the owners of senior pets. I am passionate about the care of older animals and ensuring they live happy and pain free in their dotage . I will be posting regular snippets of information to the club and also look out for some senior pet factsheets coming soon!

Obviously I deal mainly with the health side of older pets, but I am sure all the PetStreet members have plenty of stories about their old friends to share as well!

Today at work a client brought in 4 baby hedgehogs she had been feeding in her garden. See the picture of them in my ´Work Pictures´ album, they are very cute! She had been feeding them for several days and they had been happily going back and forth from underneath the neighbour´s hedge but over the past 24 hours they had stayed in her garden and she had become concerned as they seemed much less lively than normal. When they were brought in they were quite thin and weak. They had ticks on them, which we removed, and one had a large amount of fly eggs around his face. He was very lucky as they would have quickly turned into maggots and eaten him alive had we not taken them off.

This lady was right to bring the hedgehogs in, they definitely needed some veterinary attention, but if you find any in your garden, by all means feed them, but try not to touch them. Most baby hedgehogs will have a mother watching over them but she may abandon them if they smell of humans.

We see quite a few hedgehogs in our clinic, one, Mr Prickle, was a baby when he came to us last September, he lived in the practice all winter as he was too small to survive hibernation. He now lives in a clients garden and has even found himself a girlfriend! I also removed the broken leg of from hedgehog last year. She went to live at our local stables and hasn´t looked back!

The best food to leave down for hedgehogs is either meaty cat or dog food, but avoid the fishy flavours. They also enjoy cat biscuits and there are now a couple of kinds of proper hedgehog food, ´Spikes Dinner´ and ´In The Ark Hedgehog Food´, which are available from some garden centres. It is very important that hedgehogs are NEVER fed milk and bread. This will give them diarrhoea which can be fatal, especially in young hedgehogs.

If you find a sick or injured hedgehog in your garden, the first port of call should be the vets. They should be able to help you. There are also several wildlife hospitals scattered around the country who will take in poorly hedgehogs.

Veterinary nurses are the life blood of veterinary practice and without them us vets wouldn´t be able to do anything at all! Not only do they answer the phone, book appointments and generally man reception with ease, but they also help us to hold wriggly patients, monitor anaesthetics and clean up, after both the animals and the vets!

The role of a veterinary nurse has been expanding rapidly in recent years and they can perform an extensive range of tasks, from minor surgeries and dental work, to assisting vets in operations and monitoring anaesthetics. They are also involved in owner education and many now run nurse clinics within the practice. These clinics can include weight clinics, dental health checks, senior pet clinics and small furry advice. These services are invaluable to clients as a source of good quality veterinary advice.

Veterinary nurses are highly trained professionals. There are now 2 different ways in which they can qualify; a 2 year course, in which they spend the majority of the time working in a veterinary practice and attending college on a day release basis; or a university degree course which is 3 years of full time study.

It takes hard work, dedication and commitment to become a veterinary nurse, but it is an incredibly rewarding job. The veterinary profession is not a glamorous one, you have to be prepared to deal with all kinds of bodily fluids and getting your hands dirty, there are often reluctant patients to manage and the hours can be long. However, you work in a team of committed professionals, who all believe in animal care and welfare and doing the best for their patients. As vets we couldn´t possibly do our job without Veterinary Nurses, they are Very Nice (so long as the biscuit tin is kept stocked!) and we think they are Very Necessary!

There is now a club for veterinary nurse on PetStreet. If you are a vet nurse, why not join and exchange stories and start discussions with other nurses, or if you are interested in the profession or maybe becoming a nurse or working with animals, drop the nurses a line, they will be a mine of information for you.

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I went out for a run in the local park this weekend and it is so nice to see the dogs out with their families having fun. It is not often you see this as a vet, often our patients are scared of us or poorly and it is easy to forget they are not always like that!

I have been working this weekend and saw 2 entire male cats, both over 2 years old, come in with injuries which could be blamed almost entirely on the fact they hadn´t been neutered.

The first was a beautiful light ginger and white male cat who had been in a nasty car accident. He had broken both his jaw and his pelvis. He was brought in by the RSPCA but after advertising in the local press his owners came forward. We had to wire his jaw as he was very painful and couldn´t eat. Unfortunately after a few days it became clear he couldn´t urinate on his own, as a consequence of the pelvis fracture and he had to be put down. The owner was left with a large bill, some of which the RSPCA paid, and a dead cat, all because he wasn´t neutered.

The second had been in a fight, something entire male cats do a lot! One of his front paws was infected with a large abscess and very painful. We had to sedate him to treat him and his owners let us castrate him at the same time, so hopefully he won´t do it again!

The bottom line is the average age for entire male cats is 8 years old, whereas if they are neutered it shoots up to 16 years!

I know I am probably preaching to the converted on Petstreet but get the word out, neutering saves lives!

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June is national microchipping month and all over the country vets are holding microchipping events and offering discounts on microchips in an effort to get as many pets as possible chipped.

Microchipping your pets is very important and something that all responsible pet owners should do. All animals can be chipped from cats, dogs and horses to rabbit and birds! The microchip itself is about the size of a grain of rice and is inserted into the scruff of the neck, just between the shoulder blades. To insert the chip takes a matter of seconds and it is permanent, so only has to be done once.

On each chip is a unique number which can be read with a hand-held scanner. This number is kept on a central database with all your details, so if your pet is lost, someone can contact you and they can go home again!

All vets, the RSPCA, the police and dog wardens have the scanners, so any animals handed in to any authority can always be identified.

So, if any of your pets aren´t microchipped, give your local vets a call and get it done more cheaply during June!

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Last week at work I saw my first fly strike rabbit of the year, quite late considering the nice weather we have been having, but if I had my way I would never see another again. Fly strike is a terrible condition which is usually fatal but is completely preventable with the correct care and husbandry, which makes it all the worse when a rabbit dies because of it.
Fly strike occurs when a rabbit becomes dirty at the backend and flies lay their eggs in the matted faeces and fur. These eggs hatch into maggots which feed on the dirt, but very quickly move on to the rabbit itself. They cause a huge amount of damage, and it generally takes 24 hours or less for this damage to prove fatal.
Rabbits should be checked twice daily, especially through the summer months. Always ensure you pick them up and turn them over to check under their bottoms for any matted fur. They should be cleaned out at least 3-4 times a week, the flies will also lay their eggs in dirty bedding. There are different preventative medications you can use to ensure your rabbit is protected. These include a ´spot-on´ preparation for the back of the neck, very like the ones used for fleas in dogs and cats, or a ´pour-on´ solution which is painted over the backend of the rabbit. Both will repel the flies but also stop any eggs developing. Always use products which are only available from your vet, any over-the-counter medications from the pet shop or supermarket are unlikely to be strong enough.
If you are at all concerned about your rabbit, they should be taken to a vet as soon as possible. If you would like more advice or information, then give your vet a ring, they will be happy to chat and advise you, all vets hate to see flystrike as much as I do!
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